Isabela and Fernandina Islands

What a problem! The visibility in the morning was awful due to the presence of an inversion layer. Everybody woke up expecting to find whales or dolphins or whatever other wildlife was passing by, but the ocean denied us such a chance. We were not disappointed however, and we knew it was just a matter of time before the sightings would start.

While crossing the equator, we relived the emotion of old sea dogs who explored these oceans with great temerity and bravery. Except that it was overcast. It was emotive nevertheless.

The afternoon Zodiac ride was superb! An old friend, the flightless cormorant that has been coming to us for months now, came again to pay a visit. Our guests were surprised when I found that the bird had a different eye color. How is that possible? How is it that the cormorant changes its eyes color? Well, young cormorants have brown eyes, but once they reach sexual maturity their eyes turn turquoise. Our friend today showed faint blue eyes denoting his recent maturity. In any case, after nipping a couple of hands, it was gone.

During the navigation towards Punta Espinosa, on Fernandina Island, some four hundred common dolphins came across our path. There were also four or five Minke whales in the vicinity.

Once on land, we had a fascinating view of all the volcanoes of Isabela, and while walking the trail we saw iguanas and a hawk battling for survival. The forces of nature were displayed in front of our very eyes. The interrelations of the Galápagos creatures, their ups and downs, had come to be evident today.

People are normally afraid of sudden changes, yet life itself is full of sudden changes that determine the direction of evolution. Galápagos keeps giving living lessons to everyone who comes to visit.
 

Ernesto Vaca Norero, Naturalist
Click here to read the author's bio