The Drake Passage

Heading south from Ushuaia is always a time of anticipation and excitement. Ahead of us is Antarctica and all that the White Continent has in store for us. But before we get there, we must cross the 600 or so nautical miles of the exposed Southern Ocean known as the Drake Passage. This storm-tossed body of water has a fearsome reputation, and while modern communications technology provides us with excellent weather forecasting, you never really know just how the Drake will be until you are in it. And by then, it is too late. You have to deal with it. There are those that say that crossing the Drake is the price you have to pay to enjoy the wonders of Antarctica.

Today the price exacted by the Drake was a low one. Moderate winds and a following sea produced a comfortable ride and even the sun put in an appearance. This is not so unusual. Reputations are built on the tall-tales of the extreme. No-one ever sat in a bar telling stories of the average or moderate.

In addition to weather, the other aspect of anticipation is looking for wildlife. You never know what might occur - seabirds or marine mammals. Today the seabirds provided the entertainment. The birds are dominated by petrels; from the tiny storm-petrels to giant albatrosses. Birding from the bridge or pool deck provided great looks at five species of albatross, true ocean wanderers that use the Southern Ocean as their backyard as they range huge distances in search of prey. One of the species seen today - the royal albatross - only breeds in New Zealand providing proof, if any were needed, of how far these birds roam around the Southern Ocean.

For now the Drake has been kind. We do not yet know what conditions we will encounter tomorrow, but we have made good speed today and we will complete our crossing by lunchtime. Of course, there is also the return journey that must be faced, but there is much to be enjoyed before then.

Richard White, Naturalist; Photos: Mike Nolan, Naturalist
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