
Every day at least six Daily Expedition Reports come across our desks. These reports are filed in the field, detailing some of what our guests are seeing and doing on their expeditions. National Geographic Photographer Kim Heacox, currently on our Alaska cruise near Le Conte Inlet, Petersburg sent this particularly poetic DER.
Le Conte Inlet, Petersburg
We awoke to bluebird skies and dappled waters of glacier ice as we approached the entrance to Le Conte Inlet. Not a cloud above, a ripple below. The sea was a mirror, the air a prism, the light like ambrosia as the sun climbed over the coast range and softened itself on our warming faces. “Good morning,” we whispered to each other, as if our voices, spoken any louder, would break the spell. Loons called. A bald eagle flew by. Somebody said something about paradise.
A couple hours later found us in our Zodiacs, cruising through constellations of artfully shaped blue ice – icebergs, growlers and bergy bits – calved from the Le Conte Glacier (the southernmost tidewater glacier in North America) and stranded on the shallow bar, melting into summer, each a mandala, a testimony to impermanence. We watched them break apart, roll over, and drip into the sea. Altogether fitting, in a way. It’s the processes that last forever, not their players. That’s what makes geology so timeless.
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Guests on our
Alaska cruise were witness to one of the most spectacular predation episodes that can be found in the wild. A pod of orcas tossed a Dall’s porpoise high into the air and battered it until they wore it down enough to kill and eat it.
Watch the video and see a close-up photo in
National Geographic Sea Lion’s Daily Expedition Report.
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In the New York
Lindblad Expeditions office, we see at least six
Daily Expedition Reports cross our desks every day. These reports detail the weather, wildlife sightings and new experiences guests’ have while exploring. But sometimes, one details such a remarkable sighting, that we need to follow up with the crew.
The July 28
th, report from
National Geographic Sea Lion included a photo of a gray orca. In over 40 years of
cruising Alaska, no Lindblad Naturalist has ever seen or even heard reports of an encounter with a gray orca. Other gray orcas probably exist in the world, but they are very seldom – if ever – seen.
The afternoon of July 28, 2010, near Kasnyku Falls, off Baranof Island, we spotted a pod of orca from the National Geographic Sea Lion. The group consisted of about six individuals. No adult males were present. From a distance, we saw what seemed to be a young, lighter colored orca. As we approached, the mysterious individual stayed under the surface for longer periods than the rest of the group, which made it difficult to photograph. We also noticed that it consistently surfaced near a larger female, most likely its mother. In contrast with the other whales, this one was dramatically different. It was silver-gray in color, similar to that of a bottlenose dolphin, and still presenting the typical white patterns of a killer whale. No one on board had ever seen such a mutation before. Seeing this grey orca in the wild was a once in a lifetime experience!
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From National Geographic Explorer in the Arctic - July 15
Photos LEFT: Watching Polar Bears; RIGHT: Permian Fossils in Shale; LEFT BOTTOM: Kids Touring ROV Equipment
Hinlopen Strait
Today, National Geographic Explorer was cruising around the Hinlopen Strait, which is the narrow body of water between the two biggest islands of the Svalbard archipelago. We left the fog of Hinlopenstretet to do today’s activities in the sunshine of the Wahlenbergfjord. This beautiful fjord is surrounded by gently sloping ice caps, giving it an Antarctic look.
In the morning, we went ashore for a walk on the south side of Wahlenbergfjord. We walked over interesting Permian rocks with brachiopod and bryozoan fossils. The adventurous hikers went up the mountain, whereas the more relaxed walkers walked around the flat marine terraces. We also saw several varieties of saxifrage blooming in this dry polar desert along the eastern side of Svalbard. Most of us saw bones from animals such as seals and reindeer.
In the afternoon, the ship sailed farther into the fjord. As part of the family program, the kids on board toured the div
e locker and saw our Remotely Operated Vehicle on the deck of the ship. The ship went past thousands of blue and white icebergs that had broken off from the myriad of glaciers around the fjord. All of the icebergs had perfect reflections in the calm water. Some of them even had seals on them. Then we spotted our main objective: several polar bears on the frozen sea ice ahead. There was a single adult on the left and a mother and cubs on the right. Our 360-foot long ship crept forward ever so slowly without disturbing the bears. In fact, the mother and two cubs almost slept through our entire visit. The single adult bear slowly meandered toward the ship, jumping water obstacles on the melting sea ice. She came within 100 feet of the ship before deciding we were not of interest, as which time she slowly wandered away. That was OK, because we still had the mother and two cubs to observe ahead of us. The cubs looked up first, flanking the mom. She finally got up and wandered slowly away. We could see how the cubs followed the mother, often from a distance, as they
followed the dry ridges of ice and jumped the deeper water areas. We all got photos of the perfect reflections of these bears in the meltwater ponds on top of the sea ice.
During the cloudless evening, we spotted a fin whale. We watched its 60-70 foot body as it spouted, glided across the water, and then went down. Then we approached Cape Fanshaw, which was a tall sedimentary rock cliff hundreds of feet high lit up by the low-angle sunlight. There were thousands of Brunnich’s guillemots flying right over our heads. These black and white birds were flying to and from their incredibly tightly packed nests on the shear cliffs. The ship inched up to within only 100 feet from the cliffs for a very close view of the nesting guillemots. The combination of the birds, cliffs, and distant ice caps was a perfect way to end a perfect day in Svalbard.
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Lindblad Naturalist
Steve MacLean followed up on
our blog post about the books he’s written about plants found in Alaska and the Arctic. He sent us this in an email:
“The books grew out of my attempt to assist our guests in identifying the plants they the most frequently encounter in our walks ashore. With the advent of digital photography I began taking pictures of plants. Each day I would post a picture on the ship's bulletin board, together with a brief description, for the "Plant of the Day". Seeking diversity, I tried to add new plants to the list. This effort grew into the two books. They are very much designed around the experience of our guests. Very little makes me happier than to see our guests working to identify the plants that they encounter and photograph themselves.”
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Tiffany & Carter Wilding-White decided to bring their one-year-old daughter Lily with them on an expedition to the Galápagos Islands. They're traveling aboard National Geographic Endeavour, and it looks like Lily is discovering quite a bit. Click to watch Lily and the wildlife.
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This shot from a recent
Ice Bears Arctic cruise aboard
National Geographic Explorer came in today. It shows the bleached bones of a fermented whale carcass that have been picked clean by polar bears on shore, while the rest of the dead cetacean lies below the waterline.
Guests spotted one enterprising bear diving into the water and surfacing with mouthfuls of fermented whale. At the Lindblad Expeditions office in New York, we’re wondering if eating fermented whales has the same effect as a couple of stiff cocktails.
This photo of the bear sticking his tongue out seems to indicate that it might.
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From the sailing yacht Panorama, Lindblad veteran, Tom O’Brien gives us this report on a day in Folegandros. And, a lovely photo of some goddesses (left) traveling on this recent expedition.
Folegandros
A quiet night alongside the dock of the island of Folegandros hinted at a change of pace, following a few action-packed days in some of the highlight islands of the Greek Cyclades. The little-known island of Folegandros has a different feel, with a population of only 700 year-round inhabitants, and most of the other visitors being Greeks or “off-the-beaten-track” European backpackers. This has been a long-time favorite island of Lindblad Expeditions, and the reasons became apparent after the local bus drove us all up the single canyon road from the port to the “chora” (main town) perched on the cliffs above.
As soon as we got out of the local bus after the 5-minute drive, we knew this was different. The view from the bus turnaround revealed ruggedly terraced limestone sloping steeply down to the azure seas below, while the chora was packed tightly along the rim of the cliff. We walked into the shaded main square, but guides Ellie and Smaro quickly ducked us through arching bougainvillea and jasmine and through labyrinthine passages to explore a delightful village that was just waking up to another day in paradise. It was a photographer’s paradise – pottery and flowers, colorful windows and railings, seductive alleys and portals and plenty of shady cafes. We sauntered around the village on our own for awhile, and some of us took the opportunity to walk back down to the port along the canyon road... READ the rest and/or COMMENT