Daily Expedition Reports

Delos

The wind picked up as we sailed out of the Santorini Caldera last night. At dawn the wind was blowing pretty good at about 25 knots with gusts to 30. Delos was still an hour away, and it was exhilarating to stand on the bow and feel the power of the wind. I thought, “This is what it is like to sail on an historic vessel,” as I heard the wind whip through the lines making a low cry. The sky was blue and there was not a cloud on the horizon. The Sea Cloud rode the waves as if she were born in the sea. How exhilarating! We dropped anchor off Delos at 7:25. Our adventure is about to begin.

Our wonderful guides Stella and Effie led us on our exploration of this special uninhabited and historically crucial island.

Jun 18, 2013 Sea Cloud in Mediterranean

Mitkof Island - Ideal Cove & Petersburg

Another sunny day dawns on the National Geographic Sea Bird. The heat wave continues in Southeast Alaska as our shipmates prepare for morning operations after morning stretch and breakfast. By 8:30 we’re off and hiking on Mitkof Island from our anchorage in Ideal Cove south of Petersburg, Alaska. Hikers explore the forest ecology and the peace and beauty of Hill Lake. Sitka spruce and western hemlock trees provide a canopy above the dense understory of countless flowering shrubs mosses and lichen. Moose tracks along the boardwalk trail spoke of the presence of large mammals and while none appeared, we were treated to adult Canada geese floating along the lake edge with several young goslings following close behind. Woodpeckers (red-breasted sap suckers) were also seen along the trail.

Lunchtime back on the Sea Bird provided time to refresh and prepare for the afternoon in Petersburg.

Jun 18, 2013 National Geographic Sea Bird in Alaska

Isabela & Fernandina Island

The previous night we had our longest navigation of the week, sailing all night long to get to a point located in the western region of the archipelago. This time of the year this group of oceanic islands is bathed by cold, nutrient-rich waters than brings a lot of productivity to Galápagos. This area is also one of the best places to look for whales and other big marine animals.

Our first morning activity was on board the National Geographic Islander.

Jun 18, 2013 National Geographic Islander in Galápagos

Storfjorden and Edgeøya, Svalbard

After riding some windy waves around the southern tip of Spitsbergen (Sørkapp) we woke up to sunshine and calm seas in Storfjorden. We could see the east coast of Spitsbergen in the distance. After breakfast our Global Perspective Guest Speaker, Dr. Gregory Stone, gave an engaging lecture on how he became fascinated by the world´s oceans, to which he has devoted his entire professional life. Dr. Stone has been involved in a number of expeditions and deep-diving projects around the globe. In his presentation he showed some significant examples of major threats against the oceans, and what should be addressed to protect the oceans for future generations.

Just after the talk National Geographic Explorer encountered drift ice of growing density, and at 10:20 expedition leader Bud announced the first polar bear of the day.

Jun 18, 2013 National Geographic Explorer in Arctic

Isabela Island

By 5:45 a.m. the sky had enough light to see by, and the volcanoes of Isabela Island – the “seahorse” island – were passing by on the ship’s port side. On our starboard, Fernandina Island looming grandly, which meant we were travelling the famed Bolivar Channel, one of the most biodiverse marine regions on earth.

The morning hours were spent exploring an area known as Urvina Bay.

Jun 18, 2013 National Geographic Endeavour in Galápagos

Ideal Cove and Petersburg

We awoke to another fine day as we cruised toward our morning destination at Ideal Cove on the southeast side of Mitkof Island. After breakfast we ventured ashore for our first up-close exploration of the Tongass National Forest. Extra layers were shed in the warmth of the morning as the groups moved along the boardwalk at various paces – speedy, fast, moderate and leisurely. We enjoyed many seasonal wildflowers and other plants of the forest and wetlands. There was time for photography and interpretation of our surroundings by the naturalists.

Back on board, guest speaker Andy Szabo, director of the Alaska Whale Foundation, talked about recent research on humpback whales.

Jun 17, 2013 National Geographic Sea Lion in Alaska

Santorini

Today is Santorini day. Thera is the official name of this southernmost island of the Cyclades. Its more common name is owed to its patron Saint Irene, who died here in exile. The island is one of the great natural curiosities of Greece. It’s a huge active volcano on the volcanic arc of the southern Aegean. The center of the once-round island disappeared in the great explosion of prehistoric times. Today we are left with the crescent shaped island of Santorini; on the northwest side is the island of Therasia, and further south continuing the circular remnant of the ancient island is Aspronisi. In the center of the circle is the great caldera, in the middle of which are the “burnt” islands, made of lava and still actively volcanic.

Being in the caldera and looking up at the precipitous cliffs of the western coast of the island, the sight is overwhelming and dramatic.

Jun 17, 2013 Sea Cloud in Mediterranean

Williams Cove

Nothing could better shatter any pessimistic misconceptions of a “cruise” in Alaska than our first full day here aboard the National Geographic Sea Bird than a sunny cloudless day. One might be moved to double check that we had actually arrived in the northernmost state in the union. In a semblance of order, the ship disembarked her entire compliment of guests into and around Williams Cove for morning activities consisting of hiking, kayaking, and personal tours in the sleek expedition landing craft. Bald eagles kept a cautious eye on the newcomers to their quiet neck of the woods as the sounds of exuberant exploration echoed around the inlet.

Just when the day was on the verge of becoming too warm (remember we are still in Alaska!), we set out in the more maneuverable launches for a special treat for the senses.

Jun 17, 2013 National Geographic Sea Bird in Alaska

Rabida and Bartolome Islands

The Galápagos Islands are among the finest destinations on earth for wildlife. We have just started to explore this magnificent group of islands. It is a mixture of feeling and thoughts about being in a place where humans and sea lions and sea birds can share the land without being a threat for each other!

In the morning we started exploring a tiny island called Bartolomé, and in the early hours before breakfast we started to climb the slopes of this magnificent volcanic landscape.

Jun 17, 2013 National Geographic Islander in Galápagos

Hornsund, Western Spitsbergen

Through the night National Geographic Explorer steamed south along the coast of western Spitsbergen, the main and largest island in the Svalbard Archipelago. In the early morning we ventured into the southernmost fjord, Hornsund. We were surrounded by high peaks, with Hornsundtind 1431meters high, and large glaciers falling into the sea – a mighty alpine landscape. Our “hunt” was on and most guests had not even made it to breakfast before the announcement came through: “POLAR BEAR!”

We approached one of the southern arms towards Samarinbreen (breen = glacier in Norwegian) and on a piece calved from the glacier front a large male polar bear was eating with frenzy.

Jun 17, 2013 National Geographic Explorer in Arctic