After a windy afternoon at sea yesterday and a convivial musical night at the remote village of Inverie, this morning dawned calm and sweet in the sheltered waters of Loch Nevis. Soon we were making our way out over the tranquil Sound of Sleat to Armadale. At this spot at the south-western tip of Skye, Clan MacDonald built a fine mansion in 1790 and over the years expanded it and surrounded it with beautiful gardens. Today it is a picturesque ruin, a spectacular focal point for the extensive grounds which, because of the influence of the Gulf Stream, contains many exotic trees and plants (such as monkey puzzle trees, gunnera and hydrangea) thriving in the mild conditions. A walk amongst its paths and terraces led us to the Museum of the Isles, which presents the story of the clans from their first emergence more than 1500 years ago, to the Jacobite rebellions, the Clearances and the diaspora of Gaelic-speaking peoples around the world.