Daily Expedition Reports

Daily reports from our days in the field


  • Carriacou, Grenada

    All of our Sea Cloud voyages to the Caribbean have one day dedicated to exploring the islands of the Grenadines. Unlike most of the mountainous and volcanic Windward Islands, the Grenadines are uplifted limestone and fossil coral islands of white sand beaches, coral reefs, and coconut palms. Some of the islands are part of the country of St. Vincent and the Grenadines, and others are part of the country of Grenada. Today we opted to explore the island of Carriacou—though it is part of Grenada, it has quite an independent history and culture. After an exciting morning sailing, we spent the afternoon snorkeling, swimming, or walking the town before returning to Sea Cloud for an incomparable gala dinner.

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  • Sailing to Bequia

    We furled sails at 8:45 and shortly were careening along at 8.2 knots. The Captain also furled the highest sail, the sky sail. Imagine 2,600 tons moving at ten miles an hour. In the morning, I led a talk on the Creole languages of the Caribbean.

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  • Îles des Saintes, French Guadeloupe

    One of the delights of this sailing voyage to the Windward Isles is that every island has its own personality and character. Today we visited the Îles des Saintes, or Islands of the Saints, a French Caribbean island group which remain part of France today and retain a distinctly French character. We had a beautiful morning visit illustrated in the photos here, with an opportunity for a colorful snorkel from a small sandy beach. In the afternoon we had an exceptional southward sail on a beam reach, reaching a speed of 9 knots (!) before we struck the sails at sunset for a talk about Sea Cloud’s riveting, legendary history.

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  • Morne Diablotin & Prince Rupert Bay

    The sun rose soon after 6 a.m. over Morne Diabolotin, called Waitukubuli by the indigenous Kalinago, meaning “the woman whose body is long.” We had a cool northerly breeze of three knots. We docked in Prince Rupert Bay on the island of Dominica, for the first time since it was destroyed by the category-5 Hurricane Maria.

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  • At Sea, Barbados to Dominica

    The sea was gentle last night. The golden Caribbean sun rose this morning at 6:18 a.m. As it rose, the wind picked up and by 8 a.m., we had a brisk 40-mph blow from the starboard quarter. Our historic Sea Cloud was making 6.3 knots under sail. That’s quite a feat, to move a 2,600-ton 360-foot square-rigger at almost 7 miles per hour and by 4 p.m., we were scudding along at 9 knots.

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  • Soufriere, St. Lucia

    Today was our last day and we visited Soufriere, St. Lucia.

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  • Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines

    Captain Nemerzhitskiy had told us that we would start our morning with a couple of hours pitching east into the trade winds to position ourselves for a strong morning of sailing through the Grenadines. And a strong morning it was, as the sailors went aloft at 8 a.m. in 25-knot winds from directly abeam to set the sails. With the wind so strong, we set the lower and upper topsails and the topgallants above those, but by that time we were already heeling too much to set the higher royals. And wow, what a sail!

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  • Carriacou, Grenada

    This morning the sun rose over the blue-green Caribbean at 6:20 a.m. The sailors went to sail stations and by 9:30, we were under sail, making 8 knots. Mounting the spanker sail is a complex task and there were about a dozen sailors working to make it happen. The boson was calling out the commands and the crew hauled the heavy boom and sail in a strong wind. At 9:45, Tom Heffernan gave a talk on the Creole languages of the Caribbean, singling out the musical and expressive English Creoles. We sailed ever southward on our journey to the Grenadines. At Carriacou, we will be at 12°.35 north latitude and longitude 61°.34, just a tad more than 700 miles from the equator. At 11:45 guests were invited onto the fo'c'sle for a photo shoot.

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  • Iles des Saintes, France

    Today we visited one of my favorite places on our itinerary: Iles de Saintes, which is part of an archipelago belonging to France’s Département d’Outre-Mer. The French maritime jurisdiction of Guadalupe is comprised of seven larger volcanic islands but just two of them have permanent residents.

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  • Portsmouth, Dominica

    An early anchorage in Dominica’s “second town” of Portsmouth provided ample time to discover why the island is referred to as the Caribbean’s Nature Island. The local culture there has developed around the bountiful fruit, vegetables, and flowers that grow along the dramatic coastlines.

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