One of the most strikingly unique aspects of the Alaskan wilderness is the connection between the land and sea. Over the past few days we have encountered whales swimming alongside the trees of the temperate rainforest and salmon making their way against the current up to their natal freshwater streams. Today, we woke up early to get a glimpse at one of the animals that directly links these ecosystems: bears. The coastal brown bears that live here in Alaska eat hundreds of salmon over the course of a summer, and in doing so, take nutrients from the ocean and fertilize the forest floor. So, we decided to explore the shores of Pavlov Harbor on the east coast of Chichagof Island to get a glimpse of this phenomenon ourselves. Here, guests patiently sat and waited in silence along the edge of a rushing waterfall and were eventually treated to an up-close encounter with an adult brown bear actively feeding in the stream. Later in the day we continued our explorations of Chichagof, this time by kayak, stand-up paddleboard, and bushwhack hike, in an area called Iyoukeen Cove where we ended our exciting day in Southeast Alaska with a different perspective of the land-sea connection.
9/9/2023
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National Geographic Quest
Ushk Bay
Morning fog swallowed the Southeast Alaskan wilderness. As we cruised into Ushk Bay, anticipation seized the vessel. This morning’s hikes and Zodiac cruises were to be our final operations of the trip; every last one of us was eager to be ensconced in the wonders of the Tongass once again. Following a delicious breakfast — prepared by head chef Paul Cotta and his dedicated team — we set out for shore. Through a light rain we cruised on Zodiacs toward our landing, scattering bald eagles and common mergansers that had congregated along the shore. Ushk Bay’s annual salmon run was nearing its conclusion —and we could smell it. The shoreline was littered with rotting carcasses of pink and chum salmon, many of which were picked apart by corvids, gulls, and bears. Whether or not any of these individuals survived long enough to spawn is a mystery, but there is one certainty amidst this carnage — their sacrifice is not in vain. Their carcasses will enrich this place, injecting the forest with nutrients from the sea. Our last afternoon was spent cruising toward our anchorage near Sitka. The final day of a Lindblad Expeditions cruise is always a hard day. We have all forged new bonds in the fires of wilderness. Every one of us has found ourselves challenged and rewarded, humbled and humored, inspired and inspirational throughout this week. Our new bonds will, thanks to modern technology, be preserved in photographs and videos. Many will be carried on through photos and emails, but this group will never be reconstituted. Though it’s hard to say goodbye, the impermanence of this troupe makes the experience all the more poignant. These adventurers will surely be missed.
