On Saturday morning, National Geographic Quest made her way through the Tracy Arm Fjord system. It was a beautiful, cool morning as we maneuvered the ship up to the Sawyer Glacier to get looks at the wall of ice, before repositioning the ship near Sawyer Island. From this vantage point, we took our guests out on two rounds of Zodiac tours. Our drivers took guests through a maze of freshly fallen icebergs and small chunks of ice, to get up-close views of the South Sawyer Glacier. While gazing at the massive, brilliant blue wall of ice, our guests were delighted to see towers of ice and sheer granite rock cliffs towering over hundreds of harbor seals hauled out on the icebergs. After the tours, we slowly worked our way out of the fjord, back towards Stephens Passage, taking in the sights of the tall mountains covered in low hanging clouds and the emerald-green waters slowly turning back to blue.
9/9/2023
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National Geographic Quest
Ushk Bay
Morning fog swallowed the Southeast Alaskan wilderness. As we cruised into Ushk Bay, anticipation seized the vessel. This morning’s hikes and Zodiac cruises were to be our final operations of the trip; every last one of us was eager to be ensconced in the wonders of the Tongass once again. Following a delicious breakfast — prepared by head chef Paul Cotta and his dedicated team — we set out for shore. Through a light rain we cruised on Zodiacs toward our landing, scattering bald eagles and common mergansers that had congregated along the shore. Ushk Bay’s annual salmon run was nearing its conclusion —and we could smell it. The shoreline was littered with rotting carcasses of pink and chum salmon, many of which were picked apart by corvids, gulls, and bears. Whether or not any of these individuals survived long enough to spawn is a mystery, but there is one certainty amidst this carnage — their sacrifice is not in vain. Their carcasses will enrich this place, injecting the forest with nutrients from the sea. Our last afternoon was spent cruising toward our anchorage near Sitka. The final day of a Lindblad Expeditions cruise is always a hard day. We have all forged new bonds in the fires of wilderness. Every one of us has found ourselves challenged and rewarded, humbled and humored, inspired and inspirational throughout this week. Our new bonds will, thanks to modern technology, be preserved in photographs and videos. Many will be carried on through photos and emails, but this group will never be reconstituted. Though it’s hard to say goodbye, the impermanence of this troupe makes the experience all the more poignant. These adventurers will surely be missed.
