A calm overnight passage prepared us all for the big decision, were we Guggenheimers or Bayonets ? The choice was difficult. Chocolate or art? That's CHOCOLATE in capital letters and art as in Global Guggenheim. Would one's cultural appetite be satiated with a gravity defying chocolate drink at Bayonne on the Franco-Spanish boarder or would the temptation of a Gehry creation at Bilbao in Spain's Basque land win the day ?

Our guests selected on a 3:1 ratio the journey to Bilbao. Journeying along the highway that cuts through a dissected hill and valley terrain we saw fresh roadside exposures of mainly fine-grained sedimentary sequences. Thin thinly bedded rock was dramatically deformed into folded strata and steeply dipping beds. This is evidence of plate tectonic collisions millennia ago. The living landscape is characterized by small farms, pasture and a dominant mixed deciduous woodland, verdant following the very wet spring.

On entering the industrial city and port of Bilbao eyes were peeled for the region's newest icon. Rising out of the remnant industrial zone is a gleaming edifice. A beached whale, an armada of surreal medieval galleons, a statement of presence - this new Guggenheim has a multiple personality. In our photo the reflective surfaces of paper-thin titanium are fresh, clean and new born. The creation demands a wow response. Whether you subscribe to the comment 'the image is the container rather than the contents' or ' I like it more each time' you need to check this museum out for yourself. Art is about experience and some of us did participate. Richard Serra's Snake, part of the permanent collection, was invaded, installation works were embraced and the Giorgio Armani show became a memory lane.

Meanwhile in French Bayonne culture was being accessed to an equal standard. A 'classic' art gallery, medieval townscape and relaxed ambience were transfixed by the chocolate indulgence. Correspondents tell us that some guests partook of the chocolate drink experience with dramatic result. The art form in this case was the rotation of the chocolate drinking cup, through 360 degrees, before imbibing.. so viscous is this concoction.. so energizing is the effect. Medieval Bayonne knew its dot.com portfolio when it invested in this wonder commodity from the New World.