Mull & Iona, Scotland

Captain Bob started the engines early this morning, and we sailed out into Loch Linnhe at 6am. The morning was “soft” (i.e. misty and damp), but the hills and mountains were visible, shrouded in patches of white cloud on either side of the ship.

We breakfasted at leisure as we travelled southeast, passing the low-lying Isle of Lismore on the port side. The subtle, muted slate blue-greys, dull greens and ochre hues typical of so many days in Scotland were much appreciated, but at about 8am the mist turned to rain and we became concerned that our visit to Iona, for many the highlight of the cruise, would be spoiled by the weather. Indeed, it had turned into a “gae dreich day,” as we say in Scots.

Brian Copland and Konia, ever resourceful, decided that it would be wise to visit Duart Castle first, and then go to Iona hoping that the weather would improve as the day went on. So at 9:30am we boarded our white coach and were guided by Steve the driver on the 2-mile drive to Duart Castle. The castle was opened especially for us, and, to our delight and surprise, we were met, greeted and introduced to the ancient fortress by its owner, Sir Lachlan Maclean BT., the 28th Chief of the Clan Maclean.

He was wearing wellies, a tweed cap and waterproof jacket, and in upper-crust English tones told us about his childhood in the castle, where he and his sister roller- skated along the stone flagged corridors while his mother cooked on a huge cast-iron coal-fired kitchen range. I think that he was vamping until ready, because we had arrived unexpectedly and early, and the castle staff had yet to arrive and get to their posts.

Perky West Highland White Terriers belonging to the Macleans trotted around the castle grounds, where a soggy group of historical re-enactment enthusiasts drank mugs of tea in their tents, also hoping it would clear so that their battle would be a success.

Inside the castle we visited the Dungeon, the Sea Room, the Great Hall and went up a narrow, tightly turning spiral staircase to the State Bedroom, chilly-looking bathroom and en exhibition of Boy Scouting history before emerging onto the battlements. The view over the Sound of Mull was impressive and made us realise how carefully the site had been chosen on a cliff top promontory.

Steve then drove us to Fionnphort via the Great Glen, giving an interesting commentary on life on the island with many comments on the idiocy of other drivers on single track roads.

The sun came out and the clouds disappeared. We boarded the foot passenger ferry to Iona, walked to the St.Columba Hotel for a wholesome organic lunch of soup and sandwiches, and then Iris guided a tour of the Royal Graveyard, St Oran’s Chapel, the High Crosses, the Abbey Church and Cloisters, finishing in the museum where the first ever wheel-headed stone cross is on display.

Then we retraced our route back to the ship, tired but satisfied with all we had achieved.