Santa Cruz

It was truly an about-face to pull into Academy Bay after having spent the last three days out in the National Park where wildlife in their natural setting is our primary focus. Instead we saw boats, yachts and ships anchored in front of us, buildings along the shoreline and quite a few antennas on the heights.

However, wildlife was still our focus, but they were those being reared in the breeding centre, in protective custody for the purpose of increasing their numbers. The Charles Darwin Research Station has had a presence in the town of Puerto Ayora for five decades now. Through contacts with scientists and specialists, they have been able to mentor the National Park through its growing pains into what it is today: a capable and well-established entity working towards the preservation of the species and ecosystems of Galápagos.

The pressures are great, but so have been the advances and successes. Someone who has been frequently in the news as of late is Lonesome George, who seems to be getting friskier as his age increases. Yet again, one of the females sharing his pen laid eggs a few months ago. Only after some time in the incubators will we know if these eggs have any better chance of hatching than the disappointing clutch from last year. For today, as everyone will confirm (including our Video Chronicler), George was charging around his pen with neck outstretched, trying to chase down one of the females, which he managed to do on more than one occasion during the morning.

Light mist met us when we went up into the highlands for lunch, though this didn't stop the bikers from their outing, as well as many of our younger guests from trying out the swimming pool at the restaurant. Afterwards with rubber boots on and raincoats handy, all explorers went out in search for vermillion flycatchers (successful), giant tortoises wandering the fields (successful), pintail ducks in the pond (successful), and tree finches, yellow warblers and more for the wildlife list back home.

The evening was rounded up with special visitors from the Station who came on board for an update on what is happening in Galápagos in terms of conservation: the challenges, the successes and the needs to come in the future. So much to do yet…