Fernandina Island
It has been proposed by some geologists that you could divide this archipelago into three distinct provinces, geologically speaking. Waking up today in the westernmost part you can clearly see why, as four imposing shield volcanoes with very similar forms and features dominate the skyline. One of these sleeping giants is Fernandina, and after breakfast we head out to take a hike along a tiny part of its shores.
We land on recent lava flows interrupted with beaches which are littered with marine iguanas, some of the largest in Galápagos. It is nesting season, and walking along the low dunes we see sand constantly being thrown up, for the iguanas have to dig a burrow about 25 inches deep to deposit their eggs. Two Galápagos hawks are present, keen on exhausted, ergo vulnerable individuals, but we don’t get to see an attack. Sea lions watch over their pups in shallow tidal pools, which are slowly filling up. The Sally Lightfoot crabs have to give terrain by every surge. Green sea turtles pop up their heads, just to disappear when you get your camera out. But there is enough other life to take breathtaking pictures of. The whole scene has the feel of a big and busy marketplace, where we are obsolete and not noticed at all.
Some hours later that morning we are snorkeling, hoping to get a glimpse of a flightless cormorant looking for prey. We don’t, but will have more chances tomorrow and do see plenty of reef fish, some green sea turtles and even spiny lobsters.
In the afternoon we get in the Zodiacs to ride the big and lazy swells, seeing them—from a safe distance—slamming into the 1000-foot-high cliffs of the volcano Ecuador. The spray, the soaring brown pelicans, blue-footed boobies and a blazing sun make the spectacle complete, while in the water we see so many green sea turtles that we lose count. In a cove we see Galápagos penguins and flightless cormorants.
In the afternoon we navigate into the sunset in the hopes to spot a whale and while we cross the equator there is cheering and a cocktail party on the foredeck.
This is Galápagos, where every day we hear the cries of excitement, either from our own mouths or someone else’s, for this celebration of life never tires and just makes you want to see more.
