Cascade Creek, Thomas Bay & Petersburg
The National Geographic Sea Bird entered Thomas Bay early this morning and cruised into Scenery Cove, where we sat quietly as early risers ventured out onto the decks. Ethereal wisps of clouds played with the mountain views, and keen birders identified species by their calls in the narrow inlet – hermit and varied thrushes and a belted kingfisher. Harbor seals and marbled murrelets broke the still water with their wakes.
During breakfast we anchored the ship near Cascade Creek. Kayakers explored the shoreline around Spray Island and hikers trekked past a lovely falls and up steep steps to an upper bench along the roaring creek. One of the highlights of the hike was finding a rough-skinned newt – a type of salamander that is one of only six native amphibians found in the state of Alaska. Dark bubbly-brown on top, this animal is bright orange underneath to warn would-be predators of its toxicity.
Back on board, our guest speaker, Dr. Fred Sharpe of the Alaska Whale Foundation, had arrived. He gave an excellent presentation about the current research on humpback whales in Southeast Alaska. With the support of Lindblad Expeditions, the foundation is able to continue its research, educate visitors, and help with disentanglement of animals in distress. It is heartening to know that the humpback whale population has been growing over the years since it has been protected.
We spent the afternoon at the dock in Petersburg – a friendly, working fishing village. Naturalists Bryan and Linda led tours along the dock to describe the various vessels and modes of fishing. Some guests took a Zodiac across the channel to Kupreanof Island to stroll the boardwalk across a muskeg – an acidic wetland characterized by sphagnum moss, shore pine and other acid-tolerant vegetation, along with standing pools of water and poor drainage. Carnivorous plants are found in boggy areas around the world, trapping insects and other hapless creatures in order to procure nutrients that are hard to come by in this harsh environment. Here we have both the round-leaf and great sundews. There was sampling of salmonberries and blueberries by all ages during the walk.
Along the way, an alert young guest first heard, and then spotted, a porcupine climbing a tree. We watched with bated breath, hoping it wouldn’t fall, until it attained a good hold on some branches and momentarily turned its attention in our direction.
There was also time to visit the town and get a feel for its Norwegian heritage and friendliness. Bicycles were available for a scenic ride outside of town. Many guests were enthralled with and entertained by the bald eagles, both juveniles and adults, which were so close and active here today.
At recap there were two additional special guest speakers. Eric Lee, from the Southeast Alaska Conservation Council, talked about some of the issues that are of concern in the Tongass National Forest – mining, logging, fisheries, recreation, etc. Our Hotel Manager, Isaac Klinger, followed with information about Lindblad Expeditions’ commitment to sustainable seafood.
Dinner was a sumptuous feast of Dungeness crab, picked up fresh today in Petersburg, and supplemented with pork ribs, corn-on-the-cob, roasted potatoes, coleslaw and corn bread.
Breaching humpback whales culminated the evening for those who took a last look on the decks before retiring, full of anticipation for tomorrow.
