San Pedro Martir & Santa Rosalia

Baja California is full of surprises. Early risers this morning were treated to not one, but two sunrises. A green flash signaled the first sunrise as the sun peaked above the horizon just north of San Pedro Martir, a remote oceanic island located in the middle of the Sea of Cortez. As we continued south, the sun disappeared behind the island only to emerge moments later. The sea is alive here. Thousands of sea birds, including brown and blue-footed boobies swarmed above the waves, often hovering curiously above the bow of the National Geographic Sea Bird.

Our next surprises were blows in the distance. Like flash bulbs popping against the backlit rays of the sun, through our binoculars we could easy recognize the characteristic sideways blow of sperms whales. At any one time we could see six even eight whales at the surface. Sperm whales are deep divers that feed on squid, and in this area the water depths exceed 3,000 feet. One by one the whales would lift their flukes as they made their next dive. Cameras clicked in unison as they slowly disappeared beneath the surface.

This afternoon we went ashore to explore the small fishing town of Santa Rosalia. Once a prosperous copper mining town with a French influence, today Santa Rosalia is known for its famous bakery and an active squid fishery. As we left the dock just after dinner, dozens of local fisherman in pangas were fishing for squid with hand lines, sometimes very close to the ship. Just below the bow we could see the large Humbolt squid streaking near the surface, like sea monsters from the deep. It was quite a spectacle until we finally pulled ourselves away and slipped off into the darkness heading for points south.