We wake to gentle swells that could have originated in the Aleutians; we are near the edge of the vast Pacific Ocean. Early birds are up on deck trying to turn the floats of kelp into sea otters. We know the northwest coast of Chichagof Island is a hot spot for otters. We are not disappointed. A dozen or so are having their breakfast on their backs, some with pups on their chests.
We move a short distance to George Island for hikes and kayaking. Some try tasting nori, a delicious sea vegetable that, along with many other species of delicious and nutritious kelp, grow in great abundance along this coast. Others hike past golden cinquefoil flowers and through the forest to a Second World War shore battery. The kayakers slide over the kelp beds to peer out west towards the stormy waters of the Aleutians. All together enough exercise and fresh air to deserve a hearty lunch and a nap.
During the afternoon we return to Icy Straits and for hours we watch humpback whales, feeding, breaching, a calf playing, and some just lolling about. Sometimes the whales even pass under the bow of the boat; we squeal with excitement. Plenty of glaucous-winged gulls and Dall porpoise indicate this is a major area of food for marine birds and mammals.
We linger until well after dinner but finally we have to pull away and head to our final destination, Juneau. Vancouver seems to be far behind us now. We have experienced wildness beyond our dreams and feel nourished by the exquisite beauty and interconnectedness of nature.
