Atun Poza & the Pacaya River
One of the best early morning outings so far! Squirrel monkeys overhead, a pink dolphin snorting in the oxbow lake, our regular friends the greater anis, donacobius, flycatchers, jacanas, cormorants, anhinga...then the blue-and-yellow macaw showed squawking up in the high branches when a Cuvier's toucan landed and proceeded to call...and call...and call.
After breakfast we landed at a small community known as Atun Poza, meaning lake of good fishing. The few families living there, about 15 more or less, were expecting us and some greeted us cheerily on the riverbank when we landed. One week ago the school closed for the holidays, but the mayor of the village (an unpaid, voluntary position held by an elected individual) opened the doors whereupon children and guests moved inside. Actually it was swept out first (a week's accumulation of tropical debris had collected), then we moved in and sat in their tiny little wooden chairs (it's only elementary school) while the children stood in front of the blackboard which still had the last lessons written on it (En un plato con trigo, tres tristes tigres...).
Songs were shared, and introductions were made. It was interesting to see that the age of the child often had nothing to do with the grade they were in. Some very bright little people spoke up loud and clear; one eleven-year-old girl said she wanted to be an engineer.
After our schoolroom experience, groups went in separate directions; some boarded the skiff for a return to the ship via the fabulous lagoon visited earlier. They encountered waves of egrets and cormorants along the banks; others walked to the base of a giant kapok tree (Ceiba pentandra), and still another group hiked further to a creek where the famous hoatzins were making a ruckus, squirrel monkeys bounced briefly by and saddle-backed tamarin monkeys stared at us with their white muzzles munching on something.
The afternoon started earlier than normal because our plans had us entering into the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve to arrive at the furthest point we could reach in the time given (with time for stops, too). We couldn't have asked for better weather for this visit. The sky was clear with dark clouds far on the horizon as a dramatic backdrop. The water was dark, tannin-rich and still. For good reason this river is sometimes referred to as the river of mirrors. The lush vegetation, white-barked trunks, green vines and tall trees reflected peace and a certain timelessness. Troops of howler monkeys, the snort of pink dolphins, brown capuchins, squirrel monkeys, horned screamers, egrets of all sizes; the Amazon flood forest was at its best this afternoon. Some of us took a dip in Yanayacu lagoon as the skiffs, drifting silently, allowed us to hear all the early evening sounds.
We arrived home for a Christmas Eve dinner of excellent fare, a champagne toast by the Captain, and music by talented crew. A memorable day indeed, for the twenty-fourth of December, 2010.
