Lemaire Channel and Booth Island, Christmas Day
We awoke this morning to the sound of Expedition Leader Bud’s voice, announcing a sighting of killer whales (orcas) off our bow! Eight to nine whales allowed us to watch and wonder at them for nearly an hour as we drifted in Gerlache Strait, north of our destination of Lemaire Channel. Black and white, with a gray cape across their dorsal side, it was determined that this pod was a group of Type B orcas. Many of the group had pectoral patterns stained yellowish orange from the abundant diatoms in the water.
Shortly after breakfast, we entered the famous Lemaire Channel. This dramatic passage, lined on both sides by steep cliffs and ice falls, begins at a point known as Cape Renard. We were informed by another vessel that passage through the channel was impossible today, but we decided to try our own luck (and our Bridge’s navigational skills!). We threaded through the substantial ice floes and large bergs, examining crabeater and leopard seals through the transit. The length of Lemaire Channel is glacial fall after glacial fall, cascading down incredibly steep rock faces.
Late morning, we arrived at an anchorage just off Booth Island, at the southern end of the Lemaire Channel. Booth Island and the bay surrounding it are wonderful for exploration. Half our ship’s company made a jaunt to shore to see spectacular views of Port Charcot and a small colony of gentoo penguins. The other half took the opportunity to explore by Zodiac, navigating amongst glassy, cobalt icebergs. Many of our party joined a hike to the top of a nearby hill, crested by a rock cairn. The view across the expanse of island and sea was beautiful today, with multitudes of clouds creating incredible skies and seascapes. The gentoo penguins, with their unmistakable white “earmuffs” were plentiful and noisy. We wandered between colonies and watched them traverse large areas of snow cover. After lunch onboard our two groups switched locales, going ashore once again and making more forays into the ice. Very relaxed crabeater and leopard seals became a highlight for many of those on the Zodiacs.
We pushed our way back through Lemaire Channel and returned north toward Gerlache Strait. We arrived a few hours later into Port Lockroy, a small harbor inside Wiencke Island. During our transit, Rick enlightened everyone on the history of Port Lockroy Station, restored through the incredible work of the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust. We anchored in the harbor and invited the station manager and crew to join us in a traditional Christmas dinner aboard. We remained at anchor through the evening, enveloped by an incredible glacial face cascading down from the heights of Wiencke Island.
For many of us celebrating the holiday today, this was a wonderful, white Christmas. For those here simply to enjoy the beauty of Antarctica, this day was a reminder of why we have all chosen to convene in one of the most remote, pristine, and rugged landscapes on earth. Antarctica is nothing short of amazing. Happy Holidays to all!
