Ilheus, Brasil
After leaving Salvador last night, we ventured south along the coast to arrive off the port of Ilheus early this morning. We docked in the port and went ashore to explore. As will often be the case during this expedition, the group divided into two for contrasting tours – one with a cultural-historical theme, the other for those more interested in wildlife.
The first group began with a tour of the small town of Ilheus, home to about 160,000 people. Ilheus developed after 1881 when the cultivation of cacao began in the region. Cacao Theobroma cacao is best known as the base of chocolate – food of the gods. During the tour, it was possible to see the importance of cacao to the town. In a case of architecture reflecting agriculture, sculpted cacao pods have been incorporated into the ornamentation of the town hall.
The tour then moved on to the Convent of Nossa Senhora da Piedade (Our Lady of Mercy) from where we enjoyed good views of the city and coastline before reaching the Fazenda Primavera, an estate outside town. Our host Virgilio, whose family have been on the land for seven generations, showed us his cacao plantation and educated us about the methods employed to get the best production from a plant which needs a precise combination of shade, humidity, and heat. The process of grafting trees to prevent a damaging fungus which nearly destroyed cacao production was also explained, as was the drying and fermentation process leading towards the production of this very familiar product. During a typical farm lunch at the Fazenda, we were treated to an energetic performance of two local dances – ‘lambada’ and ‘axe.’
We next paid a visit to the CEPLAC Research Station. While primarily involved in cacao research, within the grounds of the station is a small project dedicated to the rehabilitation of maned and three-toed sloths. Natives of the Atlantic rainforest, these animals have increasingly come into contact with people as their native forest has been cleared. So whether rescued from poachers or unwanted pets, the centre provides a home for them and an excellent opportunity for us to have a close encounter with these endearing animals.
The second group headed by bus and jeep to the Una Ecoparque to explore a remnant of the Atlantic rainforest. Once the primary forest habitat along this stretch of coast, extensive clearance has resulted in only about 5% of the original forest cover remaining. This habitat supports some of the richest biodiversity found anywhere on the planet and is today the subject of intensive conservation efforts. We walked through the forest we encountered some of the native plants and wildlife, with a lucky few glimpsing the rare golden-headed lion tamarin.
A busy day all round, but with two days at-sea before reaching Rio de Janeiro, we will have a chance to relax and reflect before once more being immersed in Brasilian culture.
After leaving Salvador last night, we ventured south along the coast to arrive off the port of Ilheus early this morning. We docked in the port and went ashore to explore. As will often be the case during this expedition, the group divided into two for contrasting tours – one with a cultural-historical theme, the other for those more interested in wildlife.
The first group began with a tour of the small town of Ilheus, home to about 160,000 people. Ilheus developed after 1881 when the cultivation of cacao began in the region. Cacao Theobroma cacao is best known as the base of chocolate – food of the gods. During the tour, it was possible to see the importance of cacao to the town. In a case of architecture reflecting agriculture, sculpted cacao pods have been incorporated into the ornamentation of the town hall.
The tour then moved on to the Convent of Nossa Senhora da Piedade (Our Lady of Mercy) from where we enjoyed good views of the city and coastline before reaching the Fazenda Primavera, an estate outside town. Our host Virgilio, whose family have been on the land for seven generations, showed us his cacao plantation and educated us about the methods employed to get the best production from a plant which needs a precise combination of shade, humidity, and heat. The process of grafting trees to prevent a damaging fungus which nearly destroyed cacao production was also explained, as was the drying and fermentation process leading towards the production of this very familiar product. During a typical farm lunch at the Fazenda, we were treated to an energetic performance of two local dances – ‘lambada’ and ‘axe.’
We next paid a visit to the CEPLAC Research Station. While primarily involved in cacao research, within the grounds of the station is a small project dedicated to the rehabilitation of maned and three-toed sloths. Natives of the Atlantic rainforest, these animals have increasingly come into contact with people as their native forest has been cleared. So whether rescued from poachers or unwanted pets, the centre provides a home for them and an excellent opportunity for us to have a close encounter with these endearing animals.
The second group headed by bus and jeep to the Una Ecoparque to explore a remnant of the Atlantic rainforest. Once the primary forest habitat along this stretch of coast, extensive clearance has resulted in only about 5% of the original forest cover remaining. This habitat supports some of the richest biodiversity found anywhere on the planet and is today the subject of intensive conservation efforts. We walked through the forest we encountered some of the native plants and wildlife, with a lucky few glimpsing the rare golden-headed lion tamarin.
A busy day all round, but with two days at-sea before reaching Rio de Janeiro, we will have a chance to relax and reflect before once more being immersed in Brasilian culture.
