Elephant Island / Point Wild
As I go through my photos from the day’s events I can hardly believe the weather we had. Of all the land south of 60 degrees south latitude, the South Shetland Island group is hardly thought of as a place to soak up calm waters and pleasant conditions. Especially at Point Lookout, the southern most point of the infamous Elephant Island. Lying in the path of the prevailing westerly winds the point is more often associated with its steep, jagged, wind blown cliffs and pounding surf than for its reflective tides pools, lapping water and accessible beach landings.
Taking advantage of this exceptionally rare weather we incorporated a quick shore landing into the morning’s Zodiac operations. By ducking into a tiny cove on the eastern side of the point everyone had a chance to stand on the same life-sustaining rock that 22 men under the command of Sir Ernest Henry Shackleton spent four months of their lives on. While this landing was not at Point Wild proper we could certainly understand how little livable beach they had at their disposal. Averaging 30 or 40 feet wide, the small rocky beach we landed on would offer very little terra firma during a large storm – which was the season these explorers found themselves stranded on Elephant Island.
What it did offer – 100 years later – was a widely dispersed population of chinstrap and Macaroni penguins peppered along the jagged coast, countless Cape Petrels in formation above and on the water, and hundreds of wallowing Fur and Elephant seals. The island’s namesake perhaps?
From Point Lookout we stayed tight along the eastern coastline and, heading north, motored towards a long sought after destination for many people on board – Point Wild. This was not before we had a rare sighting for these waters. A lone Southern Right whale made an appearance while en route north and our ever sharp eyed captain, noticing a lack of a dorsal fin veered the ship into wonderful viewing range of this unique whale (see photo). Distinguished by its large accumulation of callous-like growths on its head these whales were heavily hunted and now serve as a rare treat to those of us who prefer to look than touch.
Heading north again…
Delineated by a bust of the Chilean captain (Piloto Pardo), who was finally able to maneuver a ship close enough to rescue the 22 men Shackleton had to leave in his search for help, Point Wild is now home to nesting Chinstrap penguins, fur seals and at least two Leopard Seals. While the Leopard seals don’t live on the 15 meter wide spit of land that makes this spot so historic they certainly patrol the waters like they own the place.
With even calmer conditions than at Point Lookout we had a chance to drop the Zodiacs again and get up close and personal with history and carnage all in the same outing.
Just west of Point Wild, past the Hershey Kiss shaped iceberg, through the glassy calm water and up to another prominent headland, we came across a feeding Leopard seal with its prey (a bloodied Chinstrap penguin) held firmly in its thrashing jowls. Making up for its lack of digits this is a common feeding strategy which, while bloody, is a sight to behold.
Needless to say this was not the only penguin killed in these waters by a mammal – it has just been about 10 decades since the bipedal variety has had to take such action. Today we left that to the seals.
