White clouds were the connection between steel sky and the darker slate water, the mountains and trees dusky outlines behind the diaphanous moisture-ladened film. But merging with those clouds were the blows of two humpbacks. Originally spread to the starboard and port, they met directly off the bow, with a beautiful double-fluke dive. Do whales practice synchronized swimming? The light mist can take the place of a shower, the wildlife is too good to miss!
Following breakfast, we were in a quandry: where to look? Parasitic jaegers dive-bombed a gull for its catch, a harbor seal popped its head up to see the commotion, and many harbor porpoises dove around more humpback whales and our ship. The humpbacks were amenable: we mentioned pectoral flippers and one waved in demonstration of these long, hydrodynamic appendages. We wished for more humpbacks, and more appeared. We wished for closer looks and one swam right past the ship. The Alaskans are noted for their friendliness and eagerness to help strangers. I just did not realize that this includes the wildlife here as well as the human inhabitants!
Although elated by these encounters, the best was yet to come. Sea otters rafted on the surface. At least six clustered together with front paws and hind feet held out of the water to keep them toasty despite the frigid water. One otter was obviously older than the rest, its grizzled face shining white compared with the dark bodies of its compatriots. Cruising Idaho Inlet, we passed a number of otters spinning singly in the water, and then we caught sight not only of a large group of feeding humpbacks (at least six whales) but the tall straight dorsal fin of a killer whale. A single killer whale cruising around. . . . .that must indicate a transient killer whale, one who eats marine mammals rather than salmon. Perhaps that is why the sea otters were no longer in the area.
As we moved in for a closer look, we were overtaken by a smaller humpback whale who was obviously headed to join the group in front of us, and then we noticed another large cluster of humpbacks also headed our way. We had crashed a humpback feeding party. Observing the festivities, we were treated to excellent views of up to five flukes being thrown in sequential order, trumpeting and suddenly, as the smaller humpback approached the group, it breached next to the ship. Soon after, one of the whales in the far group also breached. Obviously, permission to join the feeding frolic was requested. As we continued to be delighted by this group, we noticed one baby humpback who seemed to be showing off for its mama: again and again it breached, until we had lost count after twenty. It seemed he had just learned a new trick and was eager to show it off. We were equally eager to see it! Topping off the afternoon with Zodiac cruises, hikes and intertidal exploring at Georges Island, we all sank exhausted into bed to reflect on and dream about humpbacks and their bumpy bodies launching skyward.
Following breakfast, we were in a quandry: where to look? Parasitic jaegers dive-bombed a gull for its catch, a harbor seal popped its head up to see the commotion, and many harbor porpoises dove around more humpback whales and our ship. The humpbacks were amenable: we mentioned pectoral flippers and one waved in demonstration of these long, hydrodynamic appendages. We wished for more humpbacks, and more appeared. We wished for closer looks and one swam right past the ship. The Alaskans are noted for their friendliness and eagerness to help strangers. I just did not realize that this includes the wildlife here as well as the human inhabitants!
Although elated by these encounters, the best was yet to come. Sea otters rafted on the surface. At least six clustered together with front paws and hind feet held out of the water to keep them toasty despite the frigid water. One otter was obviously older than the rest, its grizzled face shining white compared with the dark bodies of its compatriots. Cruising Idaho Inlet, we passed a number of otters spinning singly in the water, and then we caught sight not only of a large group of feeding humpbacks (at least six whales) but the tall straight dorsal fin of a killer whale. A single killer whale cruising around. . . . .that must indicate a transient killer whale, one who eats marine mammals rather than salmon. Perhaps that is why the sea otters were no longer in the area.
As we moved in for a closer look, we were overtaken by a smaller humpback whale who was obviously headed to join the group in front of us, and then we noticed another large cluster of humpbacks also headed our way. We had crashed a humpback feeding party. Observing the festivities, we were treated to excellent views of up to five flukes being thrown in sequential order, trumpeting and suddenly, as the smaller humpback approached the group, it breached next to the ship. Soon after, one of the whales in the far group also breached. Obviously, permission to join the feeding frolic was requested. As we continued to be delighted by this group, we noticed one baby humpback who seemed to be showing off for its mama: again and again it breached, until we had lost count after twenty. It seemed he had just learned a new trick and was eager to show it off. We were equally eager to see it! Topping off the afternoon with Zodiac cruises, hikes and intertidal exploring at Georges Island, we all sank exhausted into bed to reflect on and dream about humpbacks and their bumpy bodies launching skyward.
