Meknes and Volubulis,

After a leisurely breakfast on the tiled terrace of the Palais Jamai, we set off for Meknes. En route we heard about the long-lived Sultan who built the city in the late 17th century, Moulay Ismail. We had a photo stop at his green tiled gate, Bab El Mansour, and visited the massive underground granaries and arched stables he built in case of attack.

From there we drove into the foothills, passing the town of Moulay Idriss spilling down a hillside. He was the first Islamic ruler of Morocco in the 8th century A.D., and his son Idriss II founded Fes early in the 9th century. Our goal was Volubulis, the Roman town that appeared as Carthage in the film “Patton” because it is better preserved. The Romans were there from the 1st century B.C. until the 3rd century A.D., probably driven out by pressure from the surrounding Berber tribes.

The site overlooks a huge plain of rich, dark soil, plowed and waiting for the rains. In Roman times this was the breadbasket of Rome, and also produced olive oil and copper – plus lions from nearby mountains for the Coliseum. We walked along cobbled streets in which one could sometimes see the ruts made by Roman carriages, and saw colorful mosaics from 2000 years ago. There were homes, baths, and central areas of the forum, markets, and a triumphal arch. Excavations are ongoing, and more remains of this extensive Roman city are appearing.

Back in Rabat, we visited the Mausoleum of Kings Mohammed the Fifth and his son Hassan II. It overlooks the river and is near the Tour Hassan, the unfinished 1194 mosque tower that is the sister of the Giralda in Seville and the Koutoubia in Marrakesh. From there it was back to the Endeavor from the first-ever landing of tourists on the Rabat beach. There were many interested observers, and a wet-suited group from Moroccan security in their own Zodiac that accompanied each load to be sure we embarked safely.