Elsehul, South Georgia

Just seven days ago, we left the Antarctic Peninsula in search of the little known island of South Georgia. This small chunk of land, just over 100 miles long, isolated in the Scotia Sea and 1,250 miles east of the southern tip of South America, has left travelers and explorers bemused for centuries. Many of us were coming to South Georgia for the first time in anticipation of its long-lived lore, while many of us were returning to marvel at its beauty and yet again revel at this remarkable land.

Now just one week later, we find ourselves enjoying our final day on this island. This morning we arrived at Elsehul, a harbor situated at the northwestern tip of the island, generally known for its enormous fur seals population. However, as we ventured out by Zodiac and by foot, we quickly discovered this cove had much more diversity of wildlife waiting to be explored.

High on the hillsides at the entrance to the harbor, we found Macaroni penguins nesting in what we would often deem precarious pieces of real estate. Down near the water’s edge, we were fortunate to see the curiously hair-styled penguins as they ventured to and from the sea. Although the most numerable penguins on South Georgia, they can often remain elusive as they nest on these high inaccessible hillsides.

As we continued to explore the waters of Elsehul, fur seals lurked in curiosity in the wake of the Zodiacs. Black-browed and grey-headed albatross bathed in the waters far below the nests of their chicks on the rocky ridges above. King and gentoo penguins wandered amongst masses of fur seals and a handful of elephant seals lay silently on the shores of Joke’s Cove. Giant petrels, skuas, and albatross soared overhead and an occasional Wilson’s Storm-petrel flitted gracefully next to the Zodiacs. Although the harbor may be most famously known for its fur seals, we certainly found a plethora of wildlife to enjoy.

In this land truly beyond description and only explained by experience, we leave with a newfound appreciation and awe. We set sail this afternoon for the Falkland Islands; although we may be leaving South Georgia, I doubt that many of us will soon forget the magical wonderment of this small and secluded island.