Snow Hill Island & Devil Island, Antarctica
64°28’S, 57°12’W

Snowy decks greeted us intrepid explorers this morning with the National Geographic Explorer anchored at Snow Hill Island. A visit was made here to the refuge hut built by Otto Nordenskjold during the Swedish 1901 Antarctic expedition. The hut was lived in for two years by Nordenskjold and three other men. The two-year stay was unplanned. Their ship, the Antarctic, meant to pick them up before winter set in but was crushed in the pack ice while on its way to recover them.

Not only did Nordenskjold have to spend an extra winter in the hut on Snow Hill, but the ship’s crew also had to spend the long cold winter, doing so on Paulet Island (where we visited yesterday). Eventually, when no one from the expedition returned, search parties were sent out and all the men were saved.

During his two-year stay on Snow Hill Island, Nordenskjold discovered fossils of many marine invertebrates and also the fossilized remains of an extinct giant penguin species. The hut is now maintained by the Argentine government and is manned during three months of the summer.

After viewing the historic hut, most chose to wander the surrounding loose stone and dirt landscape. Interesting valleys were explored and found to be filled with fossils. None of the fossils are allowed to be taken from shore or kept, but many felt theirs were good enough to be added to the pile kept just outside the door of the hut.

Those feeling adventurous got themselves into a kayak and experienced the bay from the water. Snowflakes flurried around while curious guests paddled their way through grounded blue icebergs. Fingers and toes, quickly chilled in the cold wind and snow, kept anyone from staying out too long.

A hot lunch back on the ship called loudly for many and quick Zodiac shuttles soon brought them there. The afternoon tea was spent indoors (or out), with fingers wrapped around a cold beer. Some had a freshly grilled hotdog in the other hand while watching giant tabular icebergs float by as we cruised to the next exciting Antarctic adventure.

But our day was not quite over yet. Just before evening recap, a humpback whale decided to make an appearance. The young whale was feeding on a krill swarm along with thousands of adelie penguins. The whale breached several times, giving us a rather spectacular show.