St. Andrews Bay & Ocean Harbor, South Georgia

Calm seas and early morning sunshine greeted those who wanted to make an early first landing on South Georgia. Swell rolled the ship as the intrepid early risers got into Zodiacs. That same swell rolled and crashed onto the beach, and stern-first landings were made as we scurried out of the ocean’s reach.

Up the beach we were greeted by three glaciers, many rocky mountain peaks, 200,000 colorful King penguins, and many elephant and fur seals. Stunning abundance as is usual and normal for the amazing island of South Georgia. The early risers returned to the ship for breakfast. The rest of the morning continued with more landings at St. Andrew’s Bay in the rolling surf.

During lunch the National Geographic Explorer raised anchor and moved further up the coast of South Georgia to Ocean Harbor. Here we were greeted with more stunning views and a shipwreck. The rusted hull of the Bayard, an old three-masted sailing ship blown off its mooring during a storm in 1911, was left as a wreck on the opposite side of the harbor. Antarctic Cormorants have turned the decks into a nesting site.

Fur seals and molting elephant seals in wallows greeted the shore party. A long hike up the grassy ridge found a lovely stream and waterfall flowing down. King penguins ranged in the grassy plain around the ruins of the old whaling station here. Little is left because most of the buildings were dismantled and brought to Stromness, another station. Kayakers braved the rain and snow for a paddle around the bay, but were rewarded with a hot cup of glug (Swedish hot mulled wine) delivered to them via Zodiac.

Neither breaking surf, high winds, rain, nor snow could keep the adventurous guest of the National Geographic Explorer from making their first landing on this amazing, breathtaking island. Little more can be said about the wonders of this day than, “Welcome to South Georgia.”