Española Island

Last on our itinerary, smallest of the major islands, the furthest southeast, home of the gaudiest marine iguanas and the most audacious mockingbirds, this island does not resemble a volcano in the least. The profile is low, with one gentle rise towards the center and several smaller, even more gradual mounds, skirting around. Somewhere over the hills, small tortoises live; and Diego from San Diego is the main reason why. He was seen a few days ago in the tortoise rearing center in the town of Puerto Ayora, but finally we have arrived to see his island of origin.

The morning started cloudy, which was fine by most as the heat builds up quickly at this time of year. Early before breakfast, kayakers departed to paddle the shoreline of Gardner Islet, our later destination for snorkeling. An octopus and spotted eagle ray were the stars of that show – going to prove that anything can happen in the marine environment (some thought they might not see anything “new”).

A “beach” in Galápagos is not a normal beach for normal people. The long, white sand edging the turquoise waters of Gardner Bay is not generally for lounging around and sunbathing. However the resident sea lions seem to do a lot of that, though rest, and not tanning, is their reason. Our morning was spent dawdling on shore watching them sleep, snort, slip in and out of the water, while also finding some personal space for ourselves on these enchanted islands.

Pta. Suarez is a point of land covered with smooth round boulders left over from a period of its life when breakers and pounding surf broke up the ancient lava fields before finally up-lifting beyond the touch of the sea. Hundreds of sea-birds choose to nest here at different times of the year according to food supply. Right now the up-welling of cold water from the southeast has been reduced by the presence of the warm waters from the northeast, blown in by the northeast trade winds. Not many nutrients at the surface for the moment, and a hot-house sun weighs down on an ocean that won’t turn green for another few months.

A last, lone albatross was found in the area, flying; perhaps a last circuit before heading south to join its compatriots? Meanwhile, young Nazca booby chicks are hatching…marine iguanas are preparing to mate and then nest…life goes on.