Tracy Arm and Exploring
While we slept, National Geographic Sea Bird sailed into Holkham Bay, the entrance to the majestic Tracy Arm–Fords Terror Wilderness fjord system. We awakened this morning as she headed up the 24-mile length of this beautiful fjord, wending her way through gorgeous blue and clear and white icebergs, bergy bits and growlers towards the head of Tracy Arm, where the Sawyer and South Sawyer glaciers flow into the ocean.
Dressed in layers to insulate from the cool of the ice and the sprinkling mist of the air, we spent the rest of the morning in Zodiacs, pushing our way through recently calved ice fields to get a glimpse of the glacier that carved this amazing scenery. Along the 2,000-foot cliffs walls we saw a mountain goat and her kid (the first kid observed this season!). Waterfalls spilled into the ocean, creating swirling choreography. To our delight, curious harbor seals popped their heads out of the water and began swimming toward our boats. One harbor seal repeatedly attempted to climb onto nearby ice that seemed too small to support its weight. Though we cheered for support and encouragement, it kept sliding back into the water. She was quickly named Olivia.
We spent the afternoon making our way back down Tracy Arm, bowing into tumultuous waterfalls, celebrating the wondrous gift of water here in Southeast Alaska. Late in the afternoon Sea Bird left Tracy Arm and entered Stephens Passage. Just as the appetizers were being brought into the lounge for cocktails and recap, the PA crackled – “You may want to grab your cameras and binoculars… we have humpback whales surrounding the bow!”
Indeed, we were treated to several cow and calf breaches followed by all-night feeding. Near and far counting estimated twenty whales. At this writing we are taking a break from watching the whales eat to have our own dinner. Well… not really taking a break. They continue to feed in the waters just outside our windows, flaunting their flukes, and every so often the dining room erupts in applause, cheering and spoons singing on water glasses. What a wonderful encore to an epic week in magical Southeast Alaska!
