Folegandros & Exploring

The Panorama lifted her anchor early this morning and began a lovely sunrise cruise heading for our morning dockside destination of the only harbor on the tiny Cycladic island of Folegandros. Today we would be exploring one of the smallest of the nearly 500 islands that make up the Greek islands.

Folegandros is only 13.5 square miles and has less than 600 full time residents. A local bus picked up our group at 9:30am and we made the short journey up to the chora or central village of the island. The ten-minute climb followed a road full of curves, through an ancient, windswept, worn landscape. We saw many old stone walls, some in use, some not, all decorated with Euphorbia shrubs in varying shades of reddish brown. Our Greek guide Vicky described the landscape by comparing the land to the character-ridden faces of Greek elders found relaxing in cafes, who continue to survey an ever changing world, as they have for many generations.

Once we reached the chora, we divided into two groups with one group making the climb even higher to the church of Panaghia (Virgin Mother) located on one of the highest points of the island. The views were breathtaking, and the church to this day remains an important part of community life on the island of Folegandros. The other half of our group remained in the village center and enjoyed wandering the quiet streets of typical Cycladic village. A fish monger remained at a permanent location selling fresh fish from his morning catch, cafes with shady patios were very popular for fresh squeezed orange juice, and many of us just walked, photographed and enjoyed the views and vistas out over many a panoramic point.

As always, our return time came quickly and it was time to board the local bus taking us back to the port and the Panorama. A late morning swim was offered for those wanting to cool down from the noonday heat and once everyone was on board and our ship began her afternoon cruise, we enjoyed yet another traditional Greek lunch.

Meanwhile, our Captain, Executive officer and Expedition Leader were busy discussing the possibility of heading for a new island and an afternoon swim stop. Our Captain suggested we visit the island of Milos. The Panorama was on approach to the southern coast of Milos island, when our Expedition Leader announced our afternoon stop. She also suggested everyone come to the bow for a view of some of the most spectacular scenery and geology one could find in Greece!

With an area of 151 square nautical kilometers Milos Island is situated in the southwest of the Cyclades, 86 miles from Piraeus the port of Athens. Milos is unique in its volcanic nature and has a rich mineral composition that has been mined by man for thousands of years. Its geologic character is almost exclusively volcanic due to volcanic activity that began at least three million years. Today these volcanoes are considered extinct, though the profusion of beautiful geomorphic forms are what drew many of us to the bow of the Panorama. Before us were the most gorgeous naturally sculpted rock formations rising to great heights above a white gravel beach with the enchanting aqua marine blue of the Aegean Sea lapping at the shoreline. The next two hours were a small piece of paradise with swimming, snorkeling and just enjoying a relaxing afternoon on a deserted beach in the Cycladic Islands of Greece.

Meanwhile, onboard the Panorama our Hotel Manager Alex was busy preparing for our Greek cocktail party and Greek buffet dinner. Upon returning to the ship either by tender or swimming we were greeted by Alex, as has been customary throughout our voyage, with cold drinks and a reminder to come to the lounge for Octopus and ouzo this evening. Many of us dressed for the evening adding newly acquired Greek jewelry and bright colors to the evening of traditional food and drink.

As the sun made its way towards sunset some of us sat on deck, enjoying a lovely soft breeze, watching the red orange orb of the sun as it tipped towards the horizon. The Panorama continued cruising towards her evening anchorage and, as if our day had not already been full of exquisite moments, a small group of us looked out and saw in the last light of day a single dolphin riding our wake. It is a sign of good luck and support amongst Greeks and part of a myth that has been passed down for many generations and though we were guests in this land, it was a gift for us as well.