Bequia

This morning, again under sail, saw increasing winds as we approached St. Vincent and the Grenadines, a series of small islands once thickly populated by Carib Indians whose ferocity kept European colonizers in check for longer than elsewhere in the Caribbean.

Hurricanes and volcanic eruptions have added to the mystique of the islands which are much visited by yachtsmen, nowhere more so than tiny Bequia, which has a tradition of boat building, both full-scale and models, and a historic whaling industry.

The maritime theme was uppermost during our morning under sail with a stem-to-stern tour of the lines and a presentation on the life and letters of Patrick O'Brian.

Following lunch, we made landfall in Port Elizabeth for a visit to Orton King's turtle sanctuary, where green and hawksbill turtles are reared in captivity before being released back into the ocean, greatly increasing their chances of survival in their vulnerable early years. On the distant horizon were two small, arid islands whence Caribs were exiled by European colonialists and where a monument to their memory now stands. Beside the turtle sanctuary was another curiosity, the remains of an Egyptian communication satellite that had fallen back to earth and washed up on the beach - a veritable beachcomber's delight!

Delightful swimming and snorkeling followed on Princess Margaret Beach, its name a reminder that these islands were favorite haunts of the late sister of the English Queen. Catholic in religion and Creole in speech, the islands were under British control when they gained their independence in 1979. As in so many Caribbean islands, pre-Colombian influences blend with varieties of African and European ethnicity to produce a vibrant Caribbean culture slowly gaining in self-confidence after centuries of colonial exploitation.

We remained at anchor in Port Elizabeth Bay for a tropical deck dinner, featuring fresh local produce, before slipping away to the south under moonlight.