Petersburg and Frederick Sound

A black bear munched tender meadow plants along the shoreline as we entered Wrangell Narrows, a protected channel that shelters the fishing town of Petersburg on the northern end. Our entire morning was devoted to exploring this community and the surrounding region by foot, Zodiac, float plane and helicopter. Fishing boats of all kinds choked the crowded harbor. Trollers, trawlers, longliners, tenders, crab boats and purse seiners rested quietly in their slips surrounding the Sea Lion at her dock space.

We scattered in all directions once the ship was fully secured. Flightseers took off to see nearby glaciers from a totally different perspective. Hundreds of harbor seals lay sprawled on the recently calved ice like miniature slugs so far below. Those in the helicopter actually landed on the ice and had a chance to walk right on its surface.

Everyone had the opportunity to stroll the docks or wander through town. Petersburg was settled at the turn of the century by Peter Buschmann, attracted by the year-round fishing, protected harbor, plentiful timber, and the nearby LeConte Glacier which could provide ice for the fish. Other Norwegians followed, and today that heritage is still reflected in the lifestyle of local people.

Hikers followed a forest trail to a muskeg, or peat bog, to investigate a fascinating environment carpeted with sphagnum moss, dwarfed shore pines and other unusual plants. We examined carnivorous sundews that spread their sticky leaves to trap unsuspecting insects and spiders. Raucous Steller’s jays scolded as we watched from the boardwalk. Jays are intelligent birds related to magpies, crows and ravens. Their royal blue bodies added a splash of color as did the crimson heads of several red-breasted sapsuckers, a type of woodpecker.

The ship inched its way out through the fishing boats, then picked up speed to continue on into Frederick Sound. Our progress was happily interrupted by the sighting of several humpback whales. There can never be too many whales, and we packed the decks to watch these massive creatures spout and fluke against the background of snow-capped peaks. One pair was definitely a cow and her much smaller calf. To our delight, the young animal breached! The ship lingered, allowing us to absorb the beauty of this Southeast Alaskan experience, then it motored on towards new adventures farther north.