b>Isla San Francisco and Los Islotes

Complicated clouds made for a stunning sunrise. At the southern end of the San Jose Channel (between San Jose Island and the Baja California Peninsula), we watched the sky intensify into apricot and violet. To the west, the red, green, white and black layered bands of Cabeza Mechudo stood out against the high mountains deeper into the peninsula. This geological cross-section hinted at the violence and duration of the volcanism that formed Baja.

Just off the southern end of Isla San Jose, at Isla San Francisco, we anchored in a cove flanked by steep red mountains and connected by a wide sand saddle. The different perspectives – kayaking offshore and hiking along high ridges – gave a sense of vastness and variety. Ephemeral wildflowers blossomed against the seascape. The endemic yellow-footed gulls courted near the tide line, bordered by xerophitic vegetation, including pitaya agria and cholla cacti.

The noise at Los Islotes was varied and loud. The sienna spires of volcanic tuff, surrounded by rich upwellings of cool green water had attracted a diverse community of animals. Leaving from an anchored Zodiac, snorkelers noticed schools of flatiron herring in shimmering shoals. Mixed schools of surgeonfish, creole fish, Cortez chub and snapper foraged along the boulder reefs. Solitary sea lions returned from their offshore hunting grounds to the communal safety of the colony. Mothers would call out for their pups, which would recognize her voice and answer.

As we cruised to the south at sunset, we celebrated a day filled with beauty. To round out the day, we attended the festive Captain's cocktail party and dined on a wonderful final dinner. We also celebrated the birthday of a very special guest.