Many native cultures believe that the first light of day imbues the voyeur with strength. Today, it at least brought luck. Even before the wake-up call was sounded, the early risers were treated to sights of a Bryde's whale directly off the bow. Sleepyheads rolled out of bed and poured onto the decks to catch a peek, but the Bryde's, also known as the tropical whale, proved elusive. Once more, the admonition that you need to be on the bow searching to catch the view proved true. However, even sleep-heavy lids could not mask the sheer beauty of the plunging cliffs of Isla Partida that flanked the starboard of the bow. Over the water came the protesting barks of California sea lions as they beckoned us to come and play with them. We were only too happy to oblige.
Of the 30,000 California sea lions in the Sea of Cortez, almost 300 call Los Islotes home during mating and pupping season. Although maximum numbers will not accumulate at this southernmost rookery until May or June, there were numerous animals rolling in the waves, sunning on the rocks, and porpoising towards our Zodiacs. The sound was deafening as the yelps echoed off the steep red cliffs of the small, weather-beaten island. Huge males, identifiable by their large sagittal crest and tremendous size, deposed juveniles from prime areas for repose. Sally lightfoot crabs with their pugnacious red claws scuttled and leaped among the boulders, nimbly traversing mountain ranges of barnacles. High above the rocks magnificent frigatebirds soared while boobies perched on small ledges. Something spooked the colony and a flock of brown boobies wheeled over the flat-as-glass water. At the entrance to an elevated cave, a fluffy white blue-footed booby chick soaked in the warming sun rays while its two parents looked on protectively. Already this young one almost topped its parents in height and it will exceed either sire in size before it is kicked out of the nest. The extra provisioning helps ensure survival during the first few weeks when the baby must learn to fish for itself.
The water clarity was so extensive that we could see schools of sergeant majors milling and juvenile sea lions spinning around under the Zodiacs. The sparkling undersea realm was irresistible. We returned to the ship, donned our wetsuits and took the plunge. The snorkeling was fabulous. Inquisitive sea lions buzzed around us, blowing bubbles in our faces and demonstrating their superior acrobatic skills underwater. A few of us learned that smiling while snorkeling can cause your mask to leak, a small price to pay. When we dragged our attention away from the puppies of the sea, we noticed that schools of fish roiled around us. Sergeant majors, scissortail damselfish, herring, and blue and gold snapper formed large shifting schools. Darting between the rocks were brilliantly colored Cortez damselfish, Limbaugh's chromis (pictured above), beaubrummels, Mexican hogfish and many species of parrotfish. As one guest exclaimed upon exiting the water, "It was like participating in a synchronized underwater ballet."
After snorkeling, there was no time for naps and barely time for lunch as Mother Nature had more surprises in store for us. No sooner had we weighed anchor than we encountered three blue whales escorted by leaping mobula rays. Up to 80 feet long and 200 tons in weight, these behemoths are the largest animals to ever have graced the face of our planet. The benefit of that tremendous size is that even the clumsiest photographer can snap some shots. Literally seconds elapse between the appearance of its twenty foot high spout and the dorsal fin with its coterie of stalked barnacles. Typically only twenty percent of blue whales show their flukes when they dive, but the odds were in our favor. Multiple times we had excellent views of water cascading off flukes as wide as the wing of a small airplane.
Leaving the blues behind, we motored into a lovely cove on Isla San Francisco. Kayaking and hiking were planned for the afternoon and the weather could not have been more perfect. Peering over the sides of the kayaks, we saw tan urchins and heads of elegant coral in the depths. Yellow-footed gulls and turnstones walked along the waterline. The hikers ogled galloping cacti, the giant yellow flowers of the prickly pear and the antics of brittle stars writhing in search of cover. Just as we turned to head back to the landing, a pod of common dolphins chased a school of fish into the shallows. We watched as they leaped and hunted amidst diving frigatebirds. The evening ended with a serene beach barbecue, replete with a campfire, songs and camaraderie.
