Isles of Mull & Iona, Scotland
An early morning southbound transit through the Sound of Mull brought us to the quiet ferry port of Craignure, on the west coast of Mull. The trip across the island, to the even quieter ferry port of Fionnphort, was varied and spectacular. Mountains and valleys, estuaries and sea lochs, fresh water lochs, waterfalls and streams, forests and moorlands, along with the people – ancient and modern – were brought alive by Adrian, a long-time resident of Mull who shared his love and knowledge of his home island.
A short ferry ride over the aquamarine waters of the Sound of Iona brought us to the Isle of Iona with its long and important history. Walking through the ruins of the ancient nunnery, the rock walls covered with ferns and the lavender flowers of ivy-leaved toadflax, we had a sense of history grow within us. This feeling was enriched in the cemetery next to the abbey, final resting place for more than fifty Scottish, Irish and Norwegian kings. The call of the rare corncrake, heard but unseen, added a tint of mystery. Finally, the abbey itself, brought alive by ship’s archeologist Carol Knott, completed the perspective.
Duart Castle, ancestral and current home to Clan MacLean, was our last stop. Ancient and rich in history, perched high on a headland, the castle overlooks the Sound of Mull. Below, we found wildflowers galore – ragged robins, yellow-flag iris, giant hogweed and a variety of orchids. Heading home, we came to an abrupt stop. A pair of white-tailed eagles! Out in the open, being mobbed by gulls that were clearly upset with the presence of the huge predators, these rare birds were in full view.
Throughout the day, the wind blew fresh and the sky alternated between heavy squalls of rain and deep blue. Amazingly, the rain fell almost exclusively while we were under cover.
After dinner, appropriately, Wings Over Mull, a birds of prey rehabilitation and education center, came aboard with live hawks and owls, sharing valuable information about these birds and how they can be protected.
