The Swedish Archipelago
A soft rumble from the engines of the National Geographic Endeavour could be heard around 6:00am this morning as she prepared for departure. Lines were dropped and slowly our ship began her journey through the Swedish Archipelago. Calm seas and a lovely sunny morning brought many of us out on deck, as our ship threaded her way through the complex navigational channel that marks the standard route east through over 30,000 islands, making up one of the largest and most scenic archipelagos in Northern Europe. Within an hour of departure we were in one of the most popular areas of Sweden. Many of the large and smaller islands had at least a single red or gold cottage. Nearer to Stockholm, virtually in the suburbs of this large city the houses were much larger, but all the accouterments that are part of a Swedish summer life were present. A boat, a dock and of course, the sauna situated close to edge of the Baltic Sea. We spent the morning heading slowly through narrow and broad passages watching the changing scenery. We moved from the inner archipelago where the boreal forest was filled with a large and fairly diverse population of trees, into the middle archipelago the size of the trees was much smaller. The summer cottages were also smaller. Nestled in a stand of shrubs and trees providing the perfect backdrop of shades of green against red, one could easily find the omnipresent little red cottage. It is said, in Sweden, that finding a tourist brochure or any other kind of international information without some mention of the little red cottage is difficult. The red paint that is used is actually a stain. It has been made since the 1600’s in Sweden, following an ancient recipe of mixing the baked slag from the copper mine in Falun, located in the Dalarna region of Sweden. The slag left from the mine is baked, and then mixed with iron vitriol, water, wheat-flour and small quantity of linseed oil. After a few hours of boiling it is ready for use. It is “painted” onto raw, unfinished wood giving the house protection from the sun and elements and is said to last for more than 25 years.
The National Geographic Endeavour was making a journey of 41 nautical miles from Gamla Stan in the center of Stockholm to the outer archipelago and the Bullerö Nature Preserve. Just before lunch we reached our anchorage approximately 3 miles from the nature preserve. Johan Stake came aboard, joining us for lunch and gave a short presentation about his life of over 20 years as a game warden in the outer archipelago. While lunch was being served Zodiacs had been dropped and preparations were made to take everyone ashore to the Bullerö preserve.
Once everyone was on shore Johan greeted us all, guiding us on a short walk to an old hunting lodge built in the early 1900’s by Bruno Liljefors. This famous Swedish artist spent many years living, painting and entertaining on this small island in the Baltic. Johan invited everyone to take a walk around the island, enjoy the wild flowers, the many birds migrating through the outer Archipelago and then asked that we all return in the later afternoon for a lax macka, a traditional Swedish afternoon snack served with beer and schnapps!
One of the highlights of getting acquainted with the Scandinavian summer traditions is the Bastu or sauna combined with a dip in the Baltic. The sauna miester had remained at her station, keeping the fire going in the wood heated sauna. Several intrepid guests made their way to the small wooden building right at the edge of the Baltic. Birch leaves had been placed on the rocks on top of the sauna stove and as water was added to the hot rocks the sauna filled with a delicate aroma of the healing volatile oils of new birch leaves. After 10 to 15 minutes, the door of the sauna could be heard opening followed by a few quick footfalls, a slight pause as several brave souls leapt into the air and enjoyed a plunge in the refreshing and brisk waters of the Baltic Sea. As the afternoon slipped by quickly the sun returned to the sky blessing us with warmth and soft afternoon light. Before returning to the Zodiacs that would carry us all back in calm seas to our waiting ship, we had a chance to return one last time for a rye cracker, local salmon from the Baltic covered with a thin layer of dill sauce, all washed down with a final drink of schnapps . As the Zodiacs glided through the flat skerries and small islets of the outer archipelago, we marveled at the beauty and smiled fondly, understanding the Swedish affection for this remote and gorgeous part of their country.
A soft rumble from the engines of the National Geographic Endeavour could be heard around 6:00am this morning as she prepared for departure. Lines were dropped and slowly our ship began her journey through the Swedish Archipelago. Calm seas and a lovely sunny morning brought many of us out on deck, as our ship threaded her way through the complex navigational channel that marks the standard route east through over 30,000 islands, making up one of the largest and most scenic archipelagos in Northern Europe. Within an hour of departure we were in one of the most popular areas of Sweden. Many of the large and smaller islands had at least a single red or gold cottage. Nearer to Stockholm, virtually in the suburbs of this large city the houses were much larger, but all the accouterments that are part of a Swedish summer life were present. A boat, a dock and of course, the sauna situated close to edge of the Baltic Sea. We spent the morning heading slowly through narrow and broad passages watching the changing scenery. We moved from the inner archipelago where the boreal forest was filled with a large and fairly diverse population of trees, into the middle archipelago the size of the trees was much smaller. The summer cottages were also smaller. Nestled in a stand of shrubs and trees providing the perfect backdrop of shades of green against red, one could easily find the omnipresent little red cottage. It is said, in Sweden, that finding a tourist brochure or any other kind of international information without some mention of the little red cottage is difficult. The red paint that is used is actually a stain. It has been made since the 1600’s in Sweden, following an ancient recipe of mixing the baked slag from the copper mine in Falun, located in the Dalarna region of Sweden. The slag left from the mine is baked, and then mixed with iron vitriol, water, wheat-flour and small quantity of linseed oil. After a few hours of boiling it is ready for use. It is “painted” onto raw, unfinished wood giving the house protection from the sun and elements and is said to last for more than 25 years.
The National Geographic Endeavour was making a journey of 41 nautical miles from Gamla Stan in the center of Stockholm to the outer archipelago and the Bullerö Nature Preserve. Just before lunch we reached our anchorage approximately 3 miles from the nature preserve. Johan Stake came aboard, joining us for lunch and gave a short presentation about his life of over 20 years as a game warden in the outer archipelago. While lunch was being served Zodiacs had been dropped and preparations were made to take everyone ashore to the Bullerö preserve.
Once everyone was on shore Johan greeted us all, guiding us on a short walk to an old hunting lodge built in the early 1900’s by Bruno Liljefors. This famous Swedish artist spent many years living, painting and entertaining on this small island in the Baltic. Johan invited everyone to take a walk around the island, enjoy the wild flowers, the many birds migrating through the outer Archipelago and then asked that we all return in the later afternoon for a lax macka, a traditional Swedish afternoon snack served with beer and schnapps!
One of the highlights of getting acquainted with the Scandinavian summer traditions is the Bastu or sauna combined with a dip in the Baltic. The sauna miester had remained at her station, keeping the fire going in the wood heated sauna. Several intrepid guests made their way to the small wooden building right at the edge of the Baltic. Birch leaves had been placed on the rocks on top of the sauna stove and as water was added to the hot rocks the sauna filled with a delicate aroma of the healing volatile oils of new birch leaves. After 10 to 15 minutes, the door of the sauna could be heard opening followed by a few quick footfalls, a slight pause as several brave souls leapt into the air and enjoyed a plunge in the refreshing and brisk waters of the Baltic Sea. As the afternoon slipped by quickly the sun returned to the sky blessing us with warmth and soft afternoon light. Before returning to the Zodiacs that would carry us all back in calm seas to our waiting ship, we had a chance to return one last time for a rye cracker, local salmon from the Baltic covered with a thin layer of dill sauce, all washed down with a final drink of schnapps . As the Zodiacs glided through the flat skerries and small islets of the outer archipelago, we marveled at the beauty and smiled fondly, understanding the Swedish affection for this remote and gorgeous part of their country.
