At Sea / Sifnos
Last night’s sunset swim under the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion sent us to bed with dreams of Greek Gods and romantic mythology. How fitting it was to wake up today under sail in the Aegean Sea with the western Cycladic Islands on the sunrise horizon, seemingly in another world. The forecast breeze was fickle and tardy, but by 0830 it started to blow at the southwest of the island of Serifos and Captain Britzolakis cut the engines and trimmed the sails for a beautiful opening morning on the Panorama.
A most enjoyable morning was dedicated to exploring the ship and adjusting to life under sail, easing into the beauty and relaxation of the Greek Cyclades. Sharon Grainger piqued interest in photography with an introductory presentation and some photo tips, and our Greek guides Stella and Ellie gave an overview of the Cyclades that emphasized their geographic significance in establishing these islands as home to some of the most important early sailors and traders. Who would have thought that such a small and barren island group good have such influence on the development of the Western World?
We always try to begin a Cycladic expedition with a visit to one of the smaller and more authentic islands, where we can really see the foundation of true Cycladic architecture and culture. The small island of Sifnos is such an island, popular with Athenian Greeks but unknown to outsiders, and famous for its early pottery and its traditional food and landscape.
A good swim was the only thing on our minds after lunch, and the sandy beach in Kamares Bay was a most refreshing solution. All of us then drove into the interior of the island and up to the hillside village of Kastro, the original village of the island and the main “castle” of the Venetian times. Stella and Elli guided us through this quintessential Cycladic village with its narrow alleys, cubic two-storied whitewashed houses, and blue-roofed churches.
We emerged through one of the arched gateways of the old kastro to a jaw-dropping view of the blue Aegean below, and the stunningly beautiful little Church of the Seven Martyrs by the water’s edge. Many of us hiked down to this photogenic Greek Orthodox Church, which had apparently been the site of a wedding this morning. Frappes, fredo cappuccinos, fresh lemonade, and Mythos and Alpha beers crowded the tables of the village’s two cafes, as we finished up our first afternoon and made our return to the bustling little harbor below. And at this writing, many of us are still out on the town exploring the Saturday night tavernas of Kamares . . .
