Española Island

All the way to the southeast of the Galápagos Archipelago stands a small island that has distant memories of having once stood tall and proud. All the volcanoes of the group start their lives as active shield volcanoes fed by the Galápagos hotspot, however they gradually dwindle away as the tectonic plate they are built upon slowly transports them far from this source of life.

The island I am talking about, Española, has been around for approximately four million years, and as such was colonized a long, long time ago. The inhabitants of this island have had ample time to evolve into species found nowhere else, endemic not only to the Galápagos but to the island itself – the Española mocking bird, the Española lava lizard, the colourful Española marine iguana (females aggressively defending their nests at this time of year) are just a few that we encountered on our visit.

The scenery of this low, flat island is unique, with strong winds and wild seas carving spectacular cliffs all along its southern edge, making it a great favourite with thousands of sea birds of different species. We walked among dozens of hilariously funny blue-footed boobies strutting their stuff and finding mates, and among their larger and more dignified cousins, the Nazca boobies, whose chicks are now almost ready to fledge. We felt awe as we came across the magnificent, endemic waved albatrosses, the largest birds in the Galápagos, which stared back at us with their solemn dark eyes framed by the beautiful creamy plumage of their heads and then surprised us with unexpectedly comical sounds. We sat at the edge of the cliffs feeling the strong wind and watching, slightly enviously, how the different birds harnessed its power to their advantage. Waved albatrosses strolled to the edge of the cliffs and spread their 8-foot wingspan to launch themselves off, and then glide effortlessly about our heads. Frigate birds and boobies gracefully rode the air currents on their continual search for food. But most amazing of all today were the antics of the Galápagos hawks, as several of them hovered motionlessly above our heads before plunging like stones, talons stretched out before them, to catch their unwitting prey, the lava lizards. What a spectacle this morning!

This unforgettable day ended in an unforgettable way, after exploring the marine world by donning snorkelling gear or riding in the glass bottom boat along the beautiful, long white sandy beach called Gardner Bay. Children squealed with delight in the surf, as their bodies rolled around mirrored by those of the curious young sea lions; and we enjoyed long walks along the vast beach, populated before our arrival only by the incomparable Galápagos sea lions that seemed not to mind our intrusion into their world one single bit.

How amazing it is to share experiences such as these with the people one loves.