Isla San Esteban
Our day began with a landing on Isla San Esteban, one of the several midriff islands. Unlike many of the gulf islands, San Esteban has a long human history. For centuries, a small group of the Seri Indians managed to survive on this dry, mountainous island until the late 1800s. And then, they mysteriously vanished.
This island was our introduction to the Sonoran Desert and the strange but wonderful plants and animals found here – flora and fauna adapted to the undependable rainfall and extreme temperatures. Furthermore, San Esteban harbors endemic species, which are not found anywhere else. Two of the unique animals we hoped to find today were the pinto chuckwalla and the spiny-tailed iguana, both giant forms of their mainland relatives.
As the temperature climbed, reptiles began to make their appearance. At first, we only saw the common side-blotched and the whiptail lizards. But by the time we had gotten about a mile up the wash, a large tan and brown chuckwalla was discovered lurking under a spiny cholla cactus. Then a little later, a two-foot-long gray and black iguana was seen lounging on top of a cardon. Basking in the success of our quest, we meandered back down the wash taking a closer look at the wide variety of plants, including tall milkweeds, desert lavender, and an unusual species of ragweed.
When we returned to the Sea Bird, a sumptuous Easter brunch was waiting for us in the dining room. Satiated, many of us took advantage of the time and enjoyed a quick nap.
The wind freshened the seas as we set a course south for Isla San Pedro Martir. Flocks of phalaropes rose from the water and flashed their light colored breasts as they wheeled and turned in front of the ship. We hadn’t gone far before a whale was sighted. A distinctive angled blow, the result of the blow hole being located off-center on the head, confirmed that it was a sperm whale, Moby Dick, the largest of the toothed whales. We got quite a show as the whale slowly rolled over giving us a glimpse of its seldom seen belly and long, skinny lower jaw.
As we neared Isla San Pedro Martir, clouds of birds soaring over the white, guano-encrusted island became apparent. Red-billed tropicbirds screeched. Squadrons of blue-footed and brown boobies cruised by. Brown pelicans and magnificent frigatebirds drifted on rising thermals. Some California sea lions barked at us while others “porpoised” through the water.
As we began to leave this island, a few dolphins came over for a quick ride under our bow. It had been an enchanting first day in the Sea of Cortez.
Our day began with a landing on Isla San Esteban, one of the several midriff islands. Unlike many of the gulf islands, San Esteban has a long human history. For centuries, a small group of the Seri Indians managed to survive on this dry, mountainous island until the late 1800s. And then, they mysteriously vanished.
This island was our introduction to the Sonoran Desert and the strange but wonderful plants and animals found here – flora and fauna adapted to the undependable rainfall and extreme temperatures. Furthermore, San Esteban harbors endemic species, which are not found anywhere else. Two of the unique animals we hoped to find today were the pinto chuckwalla and the spiny-tailed iguana, both giant forms of their mainland relatives.
As the temperature climbed, reptiles began to make their appearance. At first, we only saw the common side-blotched and the whiptail lizards. But by the time we had gotten about a mile up the wash, a large tan and brown chuckwalla was discovered lurking under a spiny cholla cactus. Then a little later, a two-foot-long gray and black iguana was seen lounging on top of a cardon. Basking in the success of our quest, we meandered back down the wash taking a closer look at the wide variety of plants, including tall milkweeds, desert lavender, and an unusual species of ragweed.
When we returned to the Sea Bird, a sumptuous Easter brunch was waiting for us in the dining room. Satiated, many of us took advantage of the time and enjoyed a quick nap.
The wind freshened the seas as we set a course south for Isla San Pedro Martir. Flocks of phalaropes rose from the water and flashed their light colored breasts as they wheeled and turned in front of the ship. We hadn’t gone far before a whale was sighted. A distinctive angled blow, the result of the blow hole being located off-center on the head, confirmed that it was a sperm whale, Moby Dick, the largest of the toothed whales. We got quite a show as the whale slowly rolled over giving us a glimpse of its seldom seen belly and long, skinny lower jaw.
As we neared Isla San Pedro Martir, clouds of birds soaring over the white, guano-encrusted island became apparent. Red-billed tropicbirds screeched. Squadrons of blue-footed and brown boobies cruised by. Brown pelicans and magnificent frigatebirds drifted on rising thermals. Some California sea lions barked at us while others “porpoised” through the water.
As we began to leave this island, a few dolphins came over for a quick ride under our bow. It had been an enchanting first day in the Sea of Cortez.
