There was no clap of thunder from the thunderbird's flapping wings nor flash of lightning from his eyes when we tied up a short distance from this totem pole at Alert Bay. Totem poles are symbols of the Pacific Northwest, and these figures represent Thunderbird above a man carrying a copper, a symbol of wealth. Alert Bay is on Cormorant Island near the northern end of Vancouver Island. This town has been a center of art and culture for the Kwakwaka'wakw (sometimes called Kwakiutl) people since the late 1800's when many came from Vancouver Island to work at a cannery that opened here.

The U'mista Cultural Center was our first stop. The magnificentcarved masks on display were once confiscated by government officials during a less enlightened period in 1921.The word U'Mista refers to a "coming home of treasures" and is an appropriate description of the return of these exquisite pieces to the Kwakwaka'wakw people.

To further experience the Northwest Coast Indian culture, we were invited to a performance in the community's Big House, were locals of all ages danced to the rhythm of singing and drums as their button blankets and ermine headdresses swung to the beat.

The day started and finished with another symbol of the northwest coast, the killer whale. Groups of thesestreamlined animals swam near the ship as we explored Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound. What a perfectway to start and end a day!