Early this morning the Sea Lion paused on the calm waters of Jervis Inlet, waiting for slack low tide to still the water streaming through the narrow passage known as Mailbu Rapids, which forms the entrance to Princess Louisa Inlet. While we waited, rainsqualls marched up the valley one after another, alternating with brief periods of sunshine while shreds and tatters of mist flew like pennants from the granite peaks close around the fiord. Sending the Boatswain ahead in one of the Zodiacs, Captain Short carefully monitored the situation in the rapids by radio until the perfect moment appeared and then skillfully steered the ship through the twisting, constricted channel. The Sea Lion is just about the largest ship which could possibly slip through this passage and doing so requires precise timing to hit the few minutes out of every six hour tide cycle when the current is manageable. Unfortunately, this timing cannot be predicted or read off any tide charts, you just have to be there, observe the situation and make a judgement depending on skill and experience. Fortunately for us, the officers and crew of the Sea Lion have these qualities in abundance, so we were able to enjoy most of the day exploring the waters and surrounding forests of one of North America's loveliest fiords. Only five miles long, Princess Louisa Inlet is hemmed in on all sides by soaring granitic walls, all but the steepest of them cloaked with tall hemlocks, firs and cedars. We dropped anchor at the head of the valley, not far from where Chatterbox Falls roars down into the sea, and spent several wonderful hours hiking in the forest, kayaking around the margin of the fiord and cruising in the Zodiacs beneath the numerous unnamed falls while the sun and rain played tag above us.