Bartolomé & Santiago Islands
What a marvelous way to spend the last day of 2007 – in the enchanted islands of Galápagos! I woke the guests early, with an optional pre-breakfast wake-up call, and most of us disembarked on a small concrete dock for an invigorating climb to the summit of this barren volcanic islet. We followed a wooden board walk and stairs, and our naturalist guides pointed out the various geological features: tuff cones, splatter and cinder cones and lava tubes. As we treaded ever up, the scene got better and better. Below us two crescent beaches of fine golden sand contrasted with a central stand of lush green mangroves. The view of the eroded pinnacle rock, perhaps the best known landmark of the islands, was spectacular. Across a narrow blue strip of ocean we observed an extensive jet black lava flow that had surged from a fissure in the southern slopes of Santiago Island in 1897. The molten lava engulfed several older volcanic cones which now stand out like red hills in a black sea. No one regretted having risen early, and climbed the 376 steps to the top of Bartolomé, to admire this incredible view!
Back on the National Geographic Islander we deserved (and enjoyed!) the bountiful breakfast buffet that had been prepared for us; after the meal we suited up for our first snorkeling outing and headed by Zodiac to the golden beach. We hiked, before swimming, across a sand dune to the south facing beach where we were excited to find several white-tipped reef sharks and sea turtles in the shallows just off shore. Naturalist Juan Carlos and I walked to the end of the beach and counted four fresh turtle tracks. Two females had emerged during the night but, based on the lack of piled sand, apparently had not nested. From the landing beach we snorkeled and on this sunny, calm day we had a delightful time among huge schools of fish, rays, sea lions and we even had a glimpse of a fast moving penguin.
After lunch we settled down for a siesta, but there was no rest for us today! No one complained bout the aborted siesta of course, when I announced that we were surrounded by a huge disperse pod of a couple of hundred bottlenose dolphins. They rode our bow wake, and leapt and splashed to the delight of all. We hung our heads over the rail, cheering and waving, and it almost seemed that they leapt even higher!
We traveled for three miles with the dolphins and there was still time after they left us, for my “Introduction to Galápagos” presentation. At 1600 we disembarked on a black sand beach for snorkeling. A rambunctious male sea lion teenager stole the show with his twirls and flips and curious, slightly aggressive, but mostly hilariously, behavior. Graceful sea turtles and schools of colorful fish made it worth our efforts to brave the cool waters.
On the afternoon’s hike, along the rugged coast line, we found hoards of marine iguanas, darling baby sea lions and various species of migrant and resident sea birds. Several sleepy fur seals dozed under the ledges of collapsed and flooded lava tubes near the end of the trail. Waves rushed into the grottos and broke against the lava shelves and we marveled at the wildness and beauty of the scenery. As the sunset and the sky blushed pink, we returned to the ship, now curious to learn about the upcoming Ecuadorian-style New Year’s celebration.
I encouraged everyone to dress this evening, as the Ecuadorians do, in something red (for romance) and something yellow (for good luck) to welcome the New Year. We all feasted together – guests, staff, officers and crew - on barbecued ribs, grilled veggie brochettes and an assortment of salads and desserts served on the sky deck. Near the end of the meal, a wailing widow (head waiter Javier, looking almost spooky – said the kids - in a skirt and a wig!) bemoaned the passing of the old year and begged for our charity. We danced and admired the stars and some of us could not quite ignore the lure of our comfortable beds, after a long and exciting day.
I made a ship wide announcement at twenty ‘til midnight, and all who had the energy gathered in the dining room to watch the old year burn. This year the crew made an effigy of someone who was on vacation and so, Hilda went up in flames tonight. This is an Ecuadorian tradition, and is all in good fun. Helmsman Ruben led the count down from the bridge, via radio to me, and then, with a glass of champagne and hugs all around, we toasted the New Year. A group of us ran around the decks with our suitcases: we want to travel in 2008! As the Captain and boson hauled the anchor and set our course for Santa Cruz Island, we danced with sparklers and shot a few bottle rockets from the bow. Happy New Year to all!
What a marvelous way to spend the last day of 2007 – in the enchanted islands of Galápagos! I woke the guests early, with an optional pre-breakfast wake-up call, and most of us disembarked on a small concrete dock for an invigorating climb to the summit of this barren volcanic islet. We followed a wooden board walk and stairs, and our naturalist guides pointed out the various geological features: tuff cones, splatter and cinder cones and lava tubes. As we treaded ever up, the scene got better and better. Below us two crescent beaches of fine golden sand contrasted with a central stand of lush green mangroves. The view of the eroded pinnacle rock, perhaps the best known landmark of the islands, was spectacular. Across a narrow blue strip of ocean we observed an extensive jet black lava flow that had surged from a fissure in the southern slopes of Santiago Island in 1897. The molten lava engulfed several older volcanic cones which now stand out like red hills in a black sea. No one regretted having risen early, and climbed the 376 steps to the top of Bartolomé, to admire this incredible view!
Back on the National Geographic Islander we deserved (and enjoyed!) the bountiful breakfast buffet that had been prepared for us; after the meal we suited up for our first snorkeling outing and headed by Zodiac to the golden beach. We hiked, before swimming, across a sand dune to the south facing beach where we were excited to find several white-tipped reef sharks and sea turtles in the shallows just off shore. Naturalist Juan Carlos and I walked to the end of the beach and counted four fresh turtle tracks. Two females had emerged during the night but, based on the lack of piled sand, apparently had not nested. From the landing beach we snorkeled and on this sunny, calm day we had a delightful time among huge schools of fish, rays, sea lions and we even had a glimpse of a fast moving penguin.
After lunch we settled down for a siesta, but there was no rest for us today! No one complained bout the aborted siesta of course, when I announced that we were surrounded by a huge disperse pod of a couple of hundred bottlenose dolphins. They rode our bow wake, and leapt and splashed to the delight of all. We hung our heads over the rail, cheering and waving, and it almost seemed that they leapt even higher!
We traveled for three miles with the dolphins and there was still time after they left us, for my “Introduction to Galápagos” presentation. At 1600 we disembarked on a black sand beach for snorkeling. A rambunctious male sea lion teenager stole the show with his twirls and flips and curious, slightly aggressive, but mostly hilariously, behavior. Graceful sea turtles and schools of colorful fish made it worth our efforts to brave the cool waters.
On the afternoon’s hike, along the rugged coast line, we found hoards of marine iguanas, darling baby sea lions and various species of migrant and resident sea birds. Several sleepy fur seals dozed under the ledges of collapsed and flooded lava tubes near the end of the trail. Waves rushed into the grottos and broke against the lava shelves and we marveled at the wildness and beauty of the scenery. As the sunset and the sky blushed pink, we returned to the ship, now curious to learn about the upcoming Ecuadorian-style New Year’s celebration.
I encouraged everyone to dress this evening, as the Ecuadorians do, in something red (for romance) and something yellow (for good luck) to welcome the New Year. We all feasted together – guests, staff, officers and crew - on barbecued ribs, grilled veggie brochettes and an assortment of salads and desserts served on the sky deck. Near the end of the meal, a wailing widow (head waiter Javier, looking almost spooky – said the kids - in a skirt and a wig!) bemoaned the passing of the old year and begged for our charity. We danced and admired the stars and some of us could not quite ignore the lure of our comfortable beds, after a long and exciting day.
I made a ship wide announcement at twenty ‘til midnight, and all who had the energy gathered in the dining room to watch the old year burn. This year the crew made an effigy of someone who was on vacation and so, Hilda went up in flames tonight. This is an Ecuadorian tradition, and is all in good fun. Helmsman Ruben led the count down from the bridge, via radio to me, and then, with a glass of champagne and hugs all around, we toasted the New Year. A group of us ran around the decks with our suitcases: we want to travel in 2008! As the Captain and boson hauled the anchor and set our course for Santa Cruz Island, we danced with sparklers and shot a few bottle rockets from the bow. Happy New Year to all!
