Housepost at Alert Bay
Today we woke near the north end of Johnstone Strait. This slender thread of water separates Vancouver Island from the mainland, and is well known to concentrate currents, salmon and killer whales. We pulled into Robson Bight, a famous massage parlor for whales. During high season, killer whales regularly come here to rub themselves on a pebbly bottom. Though we were a bit early for whales, the protection provided for their sake makes the place great for other creatures. We saw seals, eagles, goldeneyes and mergansers, all seemingly etched in intricate clarity by the bright sunlight.
Crossing Johnstone Strait, we saw Dall’s porpoises, again brilliantly illuminated. Pulling into Blackfish Sound, we encountered a group of Steller sea lions hauled out on the rocks. Though we were far from their resting place, the ‘lions became uneasy, and threw their massive bodies into the sea. Once in more comfortable surroundings, they eyed us placidly, bristling their marvelously lengthy whiskers and regularly snorting spray like aquatic dragons.
Farther north in the sound we ran across one of the Northwest Coast’s great biological extravaganzas – dreadful slaughter in progress! We saw a large flock of birds circling and plunging into the sea. It was a feeding frenzy, and everyone was after herring, one of the region’s choicest foods. Doubtless fearsome marine predators were driving the hapless fish to the surface, and birds were answering in attack from above. We saw true flocks of eagles wheeling in tight curls and dropping bodily into the sea. Gulls jostled in noisy scrums, busily bobbing for glittering prizes. Rhinoceros auklets crowded the surface of the sea, and regularly dove for fish, as did loons and mergansers. And afterward the water was spangled in silvery scales, the lovely remains of a killing spree. The whole scene was an extraordinary illustration of the fecundity of this wild coast.
After lunch we docked at Alert Bay, perhaps the cultural nexus of the Kwakwakawakw Nation. These Native people are justifiably renowned for their spectacular potlatches, when nearly magical masks and theatrical dances are displayed. Though the foundation of social life here, the potlatch was banned by the Canadian government. During the bad old days, a potlatch was raided by police, and the ceremonial regalia of the participants was taken. Years later, the material was returned, and is now the core of the museum at the U’mista Cultural Centre. We learned about the masks at the centre from a knowledgeable guide, then ascended the hill to the Bighouse.
This ceremonial house has seen hundreds of potlatches, and very few outsiders. It was a rare privilege to enter the house and marvel at the huge houseposts, richly carved with totemic figures. The Tsasala Dancers are a group of kids learning the traditions of their people. The children demonstrated a variety of dances, beginning with the prestigious Hamatsa, and culminating with whale and wild-man-of-the-woods masked dances. And at last, we were all invited to circle the fire, dancing to the song of the amlala or fun-dance. The hospitality of the Namgis tribe was capped by offerings of delicious sockeye salmon and frybread – good and good for you!
Back on the ship, we basked in the sun before heading to a meal of Dungeness crab – a tasty and fitting end to a day brimming with the natural and cultural richness of the Northwest Coast.
Today we woke near the north end of Johnstone Strait. This slender thread of water separates Vancouver Island from the mainland, and is well known to concentrate currents, salmon and killer whales. We pulled into Robson Bight, a famous massage parlor for whales. During high season, killer whales regularly come here to rub themselves on a pebbly bottom. Though we were a bit early for whales, the protection provided for their sake makes the place great for other creatures. We saw seals, eagles, goldeneyes and mergansers, all seemingly etched in intricate clarity by the bright sunlight.
Crossing Johnstone Strait, we saw Dall’s porpoises, again brilliantly illuminated. Pulling into Blackfish Sound, we encountered a group of Steller sea lions hauled out on the rocks. Though we were far from their resting place, the ‘lions became uneasy, and threw their massive bodies into the sea. Once in more comfortable surroundings, they eyed us placidly, bristling their marvelously lengthy whiskers and regularly snorting spray like aquatic dragons.
Farther north in the sound we ran across one of the Northwest Coast’s great biological extravaganzas – dreadful slaughter in progress! We saw a large flock of birds circling and plunging into the sea. It was a feeding frenzy, and everyone was after herring, one of the region’s choicest foods. Doubtless fearsome marine predators were driving the hapless fish to the surface, and birds were answering in attack from above. We saw true flocks of eagles wheeling in tight curls and dropping bodily into the sea. Gulls jostled in noisy scrums, busily bobbing for glittering prizes. Rhinoceros auklets crowded the surface of the sea, and regularly dove for fish, as did loons and mergansers. And afterward the water was spangled in silvery scales, the lovely remains of a killing spree. The whole scene was an extraordinary illustration of the fecundity of this wild coast.
After lunch we docked at Alert Bay, perhaps the cultural nexus of the Kwakwakawakw Nation. These Native people are justifiably renowned for their spectacular potlatches, when nearly magical masks and theatrical dances are displayed. Though the foundation of social life here, the potlatch was banned by the Canadian government. During the bad old days, a potlatch was raided by police, and the ceremonial regalia of the participants was taken. Years later, the material was returned, and is now the core of the museum at the U’mista Cultural Centre. We learned about the masks at the centre from a knowledgeable guide, then ascended the hill to the Bighouse.
This ceremonial house has seen hundreds of potlatches, and very few outsiders. It was a rare privilege to enter the house and marvel at the huge houseposts, richly carved with totemic figures. The Tsasala Dancers are a group of kids learning the traditions of their people. The children demonstrated a variety of dances, beginning with the prestigious Hamatsa, and culminating with whale and wild-man-of-the-woods masked dances. And at last, we were all invited to circle the fire, dancing to the song of the amlala or fun-dance. The hospitality of the Namgis tribe was capped by offerings of delicious sockeye salmon and frybread – good and good for you!
Back on the ship, we basked in the sun before heading to a meal of Dungeness crab – a tasty and fitting end to a day brimming with the natural and cultural richness of the Northwest Coast.
