The Bay of Solitude
The expeditions we take to see the great whales at Boca De Soledad are so magnificent, it’s no wonder why we keep coming back to be amongst these beautiful animals. After coming onboard a little over a month ago, I have had the pleasure of returning here every week to encounter something different and extraordinary. Between the numbers of whales spotted, the activity they partake in, or maybe some identifying marks that help you to recognize a particular whale, each of our outings are rare and intimate.
With the season progressing, more and more gray whales are gathering in the Boca. Pacing up and down the channel, they swim against the current to increase the strength and stamina of the calf. Riding alongside in our Zodiacs, we try to blend in and allow the whales to approach us. In some rare cases you might look over the side and see one close enough to touch (which is in fact allowed), staring right back at you. Though more times than not, they go about their business as we follow along absorbing the serenity of the experience as a whole.
At different times throughout the day the activity in the water can vary. In the morning I saw what could be a nursing session where the mother swam submerged just below the surface as her calf playfully rolled over her back. The calf then made continuous dives down beside its mother, probably vacuuming up the fatty milk required to fuel its constant growth. Early in the evening, just before the sun started to set, we were following along with one cow/calf pair. Paying us no mind at all, they stemmed the current for about half an hour before the calf veered toward us and nearly jumped up into the Zodiac with us.
Other characteristics about these whales that I find interesting are the visual markings that appear all over their outsized massive bodies when they surface. These distinctive marks help us to recognize the ones that journey back to Magdalena Bay. When following a certain pair of whales, you might find yourself crossing others, so the barnacles and scars create unique patterns which help to individualize each whale like a fingerprint would with us.
Like a fingerprint, the memories we all take home with us after meeting these amazing animals is different. For me it was the way a blow can surprise and break the silence of a still Zodiac group honed in on looking for the massive creature in the opposite direction. For others it may be different, but treasured I’m sure, all the same.
So if you haven’t yet been Among the Great Whales, I recommend you add it to the top of the list.
