Haida Gwaii – Daajing Giids, 9/11/2023, National Geographic Sea Lion
Aboard the
National Geographic Sea Lion
Alaska
We are in Haida Gwaii – Daajing Giids! We took a bus to Old Massett to meet two famous Haida carving families, Jim Hart and Christian White. Neither artist was home as they were at a carver’s conference in Japan. Our guests spent the whole day between the two workshops and visiting a stunning longhouse at Christian White’s. It was an absolutely life changing day.
Kimberly A. Wood is a Hawaii based international marine researcher, photographer, filmmaker, boat captain and educator. Her research focus is often based in population distribution, diversity and habitat usage of cetacean species, however, she has al...
We awoke to a blanket of calm in the air. A thin fog, blueish light, placid water, and the sights of sleepy boats in the harbor were the archetypical backdrop for the beauty of Haida Gwaii. Our expedition took us off National Geographic Sea Bird to the Haida Heritage Center. Here we had the privilege to be guided through the museum to get a closer look at the art, livelihood, totem poles, and the beauty of the Haida way of life. What we witnessed gave us a small taste of the wonder the Haida have maintained for generations. The afternoon took us deeper into the island, to the rainforests in the interior. Our forest walks took us to the Spirit Lakes where we witnessed the splendor and deep biodiversity among old growth western red cedar and Sitka spruce. Today was both for land and sea, with our undersea team scuba diving at a nearby island and naturalists showing guests the invertebrate life up close that we had been sharing space with on the dock. As the day comes to close, I write from open waters as we make our way south to the island of SG̱ang Gwaay.
We enjoyed sunny skies this morning at anchorage in Tenedos Bay, Desolation Sound. Our first full day started ashore with hikes of various difficulties, including a long hike that traversed the island. Kayak and Zodiac tours explored the bay, viewing birds and harbor seals hauled out on rocks. The afternoon was filled with sunbathing and looking for wildlife. Spirits were high as National Geographic Sea Bird transited north searching for charismatic megafauna on our way to Alert Bay.
We awoke this morning in the calm protected waters of the Inside Passage in British Columbia. These narrow passages are protected by the numerous islands buttressing the wild coastline; we quietly passed through the misty temperate rainforest on these rich marine channels as the eagles, gulls, shorebirds, and waterfowl barely acknowledged our intrusion. Our morning aboard, however, was busy with a variety of activities and presentations, interspersed with time to soak in the mysterious misty landscape. In the afternoon we had tours in our expedition landing craft through the Jackson Narrows Marine Reserve, where small streams poured out of the dark, green forest. Cedars, hemlocks, spruces and alders overhung the banks, the lush verdant growth starkly clinging in a thin organic layer to the exposed gray granodiorite rocks. The presence of numerous bald eagles and glaucous-winged gulls gave away the presence of spawning salmon in the narrow creek mouths. The brown-stained waters emphasized the intimate connection of the forest and the marine landscape surrounding us.
