Today was a real mixture of emotions and sights starting with an early morning cruise to Cambodia’s largest city, Phnom Penh. As we slowly glided past an assortment of houses, temples, and industry, we were again greeted by the glowing red sunrise that has been so typical of our adventure so far.

Following our usual delicious breakfast, we began our full day in Phnom Penh. Our introduction was interesting to say the least as we jumped on modified bicycles and were taken on a wild cyclo city tour. Being immersed in the morning traffic chaos of this bustling tropical city was an experience to remember.

After 20 minutes being chauffeured on a bicycle, we stopped outside the Royal Palace for a guided tour around the magnificent structures, including the highlight—the Silver Pagoda. According to the blue flag, the king was in residence and many were disappointed that he did not come out to have a cup of tea with us.

The palace grounds and the associated buildings were fascinating. The attention to detail in the architecture was a delight to the eye. We were then loaded on an air-conditioned bus (phew!) to a fantastic local restaurant, called the Topaz for a wonderful five-course meal in a beautiful setting.

Our afternoon activities were quite somber and reflective as we learned about the atrocities of the Khmer Rouge and Pol Pot regime when millions of Cambodians were murdered during a four-year period in the 1970s. We commenced with a guided visit to the infamous S-21 genocide Museum (Toul Sleng) and then continued onto the killing fields at Choeung Ek.

While what we saw and learned about this genocide filled us with a deep sadness, it is gratifying to witness how Cambodia has bounced back and its greatest resource, the Khmer people, are happy, friendly, and truly remarkable in numerous ways. This was demonstrated to us when the Apsara dancers displayed their immense talents to us after our barbecue dinner.

All in all, today was filled with a combination of beauty and despair for a horrible past. However, our sadness was more than offset by hope and prosperity for the future of this remarkable nation.