Just after the sunrise green flash, the sharp-eyed spotters on the bow called out to announce a nearby blow; in a moment, we had joyfully identified that long, sleek, blue-gray shape…indeed, a blue whale, actually, two- feeding just north of Isla Espiritu Santo. Blue whales are twice as long as the humpback and gray whales we’ve enjoyed these past few days, and at least twice as heavy. Alberto shared a remarkable visual to help us understand the true size of these heaviest of all mammals, ever… the tongue of a blue whale weighs as much as an adult African elephant. Amazing!
Los Islotes, (the islets) was our morning expedition stop. A small boat tour around the sculpted red guano-frosted rocks brought us up close and personal with the resident California sea lions- especially the recently weaned youngsters cavorting under and around the boats. Sea lions slept and jousted on the rock ledges, jumped into and climbed out of the water; barked, bellowed and called for their mothers. In the air, a formation of brown pelicans swooped back and forth, occasionally tucking their wings and diving straight down into the sea, hopefully snatching a few small fish for their efforts. Blue-footed boobies were mostly overhead, while brown boobies guarded various small clifflets nearer to the water, where they will lay their pointed eggs designed to roll in a circle rather than off the cliff…
At the southeast point of Isla Espirtu Santo lies an indentation named Bahia Bonanza. Its splendid white beach extends in a crescent for two miles, and whether beachcombing, kayaking, hiking or snorkeling, this is a perfect afternoon stop. Farther into the arroyo columnar cacti, agave and other interesting desert plants are tucked all around the large granite boulders. And with a bit of luck, we just might scare up the endemic black jackrabbit found only on this protected island.
Our time together has been gifted with friendship and whales, stories from around the globe, sunny days, windy nights and the breathtaking wild desert backdrop of beautiful Baja California.
