Los Islotes & Isla Partida

Horizontal bands of rose-apricot clouds backed the islands of Los Islotes and Isla Partida for the final sunrise of 2007. The National Geographic Sea Bird anchored in the lee of a rocky islet where California sea lions congregate throughout the year. In early summer this becomes a breeding rookery. For now it is a place where the animals gather to rest and sunbathe. Soon after breakfast we climbed into Zodiacs for a close-up view of the small islets and the seabirds, sea lions, and crabs that frequent this site. Boulders and ledges of volcanic tuff provide perches for blue-footed and brown boobies and for the endemic yellow-footed gulls. Frigatebirds and turkey vultures circled overhead, catching the rising thermals above the cliffs that warmed in the morning sunlight. Dull green and bright orange Sally Lightfoot crabs scuttled at the water’s edge. Their flattened bodies allow them to squeeze into narrow cracks for protection from waves and potential predators. The primary attraction for us, of course, was the sea lions. The pale golden hair of the females contrasted with the dark chocolate of the much larger males. Limp bodies of some individuals draped over the rocks in total relaxation, while other animals squabbled with their neighbors, arguing over the best spot to sleep. Several of the young ones born last summer eagerly nursed from one or more of their mothers’ four nipples.

After the Zodiac cruises we donned wetsuits for a plunge into the clear water to see colorful fish and search for sea lions. We were not disappointed. These marine mammals move well on land, but in the water they are in their element. They raced past us like streamlined torpedoes, propelled by nearly effortless flaps of their wing-like front flippers. Curious individuals investigated the human swimmers then dashed off as quickly as they had arrived. Eventually the snorkeling group returned to the ship, in time for a well-earned buffet lunch.

For the afternoon the ship anchored in a lovely bay. This finger of green water penetrates colorful cliffs of volcanic deposits then ends in a secluded white-sand beach. Before long, kayakers had taken off in all directions to explore the beautiful cove. Zodiac cruisers also embarked the smaller crafts to skirt the shoreline and to watch brown pelicans plummet from the heights for a chance to catch their prey. The rocks have eroded over the centuries into stunning shapes that resemble honeycombs, lace and dripping frosting. While those on the water admired these natural sculptures, others made their own creations on shore. Sand castles and loaves of bread made with sand flour appeared near our landing. It was difficult to leave this wonderful place, but the sun was setting.

Once aboard, an announcement came over the PA about a special New Year’s Eve celebration. Not one, but two piñatas awaited their fates on the top deck. The younger guests took turns whacking away until candy spilled onto the deck. Later in the evening another New Year’s Eve event occurred. Expecting only a few people to still be awake to welcome the new year at midnight, a toast took place at 10 pm instead. Happy New Year to all!