Puerto Ballena

This last day of the year was our first day without wind, so we all savored the warm sun and calm. Soft violet and golden rose light greeted early risers as we stepped out on deck. It was a beautiful beginning to a wonderful day.

After breakfast, some of us hiked along the mangroves listening for the calls of warblers. On the mudflats snowy egrets flushed small sardines, a great morning meal. Marbled godwits and whimbrels were searching for food as well, their long bills probing the mud alongside smaller plovers. A belted kingfisher also appeared from deep inside the foliage of a red mangrove sending out an alarm call to let us know we were in her territory.

Farther up the beach, the carapace of a large sea turtle, a rattlesnake from beneath a rock and a variety of beetles making their way across the desert floor were some of the treasures we found on our mornings hikes. The interior of Puerto Ballena almost seems like a cultivated garden—the plants of the southern Sonoran desert here are all in display, and the blooms of indigo bush, tronador in its paper-lantern best, and even the strange red wax-like blooms of the candellia brought color to the desert.

After lunch and a mandatory siesta, we zipped to shore for an afternoon of water sports and beach time. Snorkelers were treated to wonderful views of balloonfish in the shallows, eared grebes catching small fingerlings underwater and even an elusive octopus tucked into the crevice in a rock, only its siphon giving it away. Although the afternoon breeze came up, several kayakers paddled out into the turquoise bay. The younger paddlers goofed around near shore, attempting to learn both stroke and landing techniques. Late in the day, we returned to the National Geographic Sea Lion, sandy and salty, and ready to put on our dancing shoes.

Although not completely traditional, we celebrated the end of 2007 with the breaking of an enormous Mexican piñata. Starting with our smallest guest, Caroline, the youngsters lined up for their turn. After several valiant attempts, the piñata was finally burst by Katherine, to the delight of all. No sooner had the candy and piñata shards been cleared from the deck, when the music started and the celebration began. After energetic dancing for a few hours and toasting the New Year (at 10 p.m.), we dropped into bed and drifted off to sleep. Happy New Year!