Lindblad Expeditions Celebrates the Blessing of
National Geographic Islander II in Salinas, Ecuador

Expedition Stories

South Georgia: Where Few Have Gone Before

There is a wildlife spectacle waiting in South Georgia unlike anything you’ve seen before: tens of thousands of penguins crowding one beach, enormous elephant seals hauled-out on shore, and flocks of seabirds soaring above. Plus, in the Falklands, step foot on white-sand beaches which host their share of irresistible penguins. Get a glimpse of what it’s like to explore these rugged and remote islands and then plan to join us there this fall.

Daily expedition reports

Daily Expedition Reports

8/10/2022

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National Geographic Explorer

Kangerlussuatsiaq Fjord, Tasiusaq, Qeqqata Region

Under calm seas and gray, low hanging clouds, we entered this impressive fjord system. We observed low, offshore islands at first before we headed into narrower waters, where we saw steeper mountainsides, often covered in green vegetation along the coastline and along narrow ledges heading upwards. As we sailed farther in, the landscape became even more dramatic. We observed glaciers, jagged peaks shrouded in low clouds, and waterfalls lacing the rock faces. At the entrance, we also saw many birds, including black-legged kittiwakes, Iceland gulls, and the occasional glaucous gull. By this stage, we were deep into the fjord and surrounded by a beauty that transcends words. The warm weather and calm conditions meant that guests were chatting away and taking many photographs on different decks and on the bow. The glaciers varied enormously from dramatic tidewater glaciers to hanging glaciers. Many glaciers were in retreat, looking gray or brown with their smoothed edges and lots of moraine material piled on top. By late morning, we reached the end of one of the arms of this long fjord. Before us was a lovely tidewater glacier. Its face was blue, a sign of recent calving events. We hopped into our fleet of trusty Zodiacs and headed off for closer views of the Qingua Kujalleq Glacier. It was indeed dramatic, but even though we hoped and hoped, there were no calving events of note. This did not in any way detract from the experience, which also included sightings of eider ducks, black guillemots, and Iceland gulls. On one side of the fjord, some hundreds of meters further away from the main glacier, we came across two retreating glaciers that in 2010 were joined to the main glacier, a sad reminder that climate change is occurring very quickly up in these high latitudes. Off two glaciers, water poured out from underneath and made its way down the mountainside. Before heading into the fjord via a tunnel under the main glacier, the river had become a raging torrent. Over lunch and in the early afternoon, we headed for Tasiusaq for our planned activity, a choice of various walks. When we got ashore, we had a brief moment to take in the loveliness of the spot before being assaulted by hordes of mosquitoes. We hastily put on our mosquito nets before heading forth on our chosen walks. There was plenty to enjoy and see along the way, including many plants, some in flower, mushrooms, and an incredible variety of lichens. Back at the landing, we all agreed that not only had we enjoyed nature, but nature had also enjoyed us! However, we were never going to allow a mosquito to get in the way of a good walk. Photographers: Sisse Brimberg and Eduardo Shaw

Daily Expedition Reports

8/9/2022

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National Geographic Sea Bird

George Island & Inian Islands

We woke up to a brisk and slightly windy morning. We anchored in the protection of Granite Cove on George Island to serve as a basecamp for our morning activities. Our explorers had their first taste of on-water, independent exploration through kayaking and stand up paddleboarding. Navigating through kelp, our explorers enjoyed a dry morning with high clouds and calm waters – a welcome treat! The group split into a series of hikes that included a photo walk with our photography experts, a short hike and interpretive stroll with seasoned naturalists, and a longer walk through the temperate rainforest to a World War II site. From the high point of the longer walk, our explorers were able to see signs of the sights to come – sea otters, Steller sea lions, and even a faraway glacier. Our ship repositioned only four miles to take us to the majestic Inian Islands. Still gifted with unbelievably good weather and a light wind that kept the fog at bay, we set off on a series of Zodiac cruises. The Steller sea lions were playing in the water or hauled out on rocks. The young ones tried their fins at sparring. Sea otters and their new pups played in the bull kelp. It was a stellar day to cruise around, take in the brisk Alaskan air, and enjoy all that the wildlife had to offer.

Daily Expedition Reports

8/9/2022

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National Geographic Explorer

Nuuk and Nuup Kangerlua

We spent the morning navigating towards the entrance of Nuup Kangerlua, a large fjord system on the western coast of Greenland. The capital city of Nuuk is located at this entrance. The calm seas and lack of wind made for a very pleasant ride, and we enjoyed watching the occasional iceberg and the ubiquitous fulmars following us along the way. Related to albatrosses and of the same family popularly known as the “tubenoses,” fulmars are master flyers. They tirelessly roam the open Arctic waters, looking for small crustaceans and fish close to the surface. I will never get tired of watching a fulmar effortlessly glide above the waves, sometimes barely touching the water with the very tip of a wing! We also had the pleasure of attending a couple very interesting lectures. Naturalist Eduardo Shaw spoke about Fritjof Nansen’s first-ever crossing of Greenland’s ice cap, and Global Perspective’s guest lecturer Peter Hillary spoke about the extraordinary life and achievements of his father, Sir Edmund Hillary. National Geographic Explorer docked at Nook early in the afternoon, and we all went ashore to visit Greenland’s capital and largest city. Local guides showed us around the downtown area and explained the way of life of people in the world’s northernmost capital, only 150 miles (240 km) south of the Arctic Circle. As a side note, it is interesting to note that the second northern capital is Reykjavik, so we have visited numbers one and two during this trip! We enjoyed the city’s atmosphere with the traditional old ways combined with the amenities and feel of a modern metropolis. One can have a snack of seal meat at a fancy coffee shop or look for the perfect Inuit figurine carved from walrus ivory. A visit to the National Museum and free time to explore completed our visit to this very interesting place, regaling us with a new understanding of this vast and wonderful place we call Greenland. Photo caption and photographer: Visiting Nuuk and Nuup Kangerlua. Photo by Carlos Navarro

Daily Expedition Reports

8/8/2022

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National Geographic Endeavour II

Floreana Island

Today we visited Floreana Island. The island is historically important as the first island in the archipelago to be inhabited by humans. Our day started very early. Early risers enjoyed one of two options: a beautiful, fast-paced walk or a photography walk to explore this wonderful visitor site. Cormorant Point offers one of the most spectacular views on the island and sandy beaches, all on the same walk! We landed at a green sandy beach. After a short walk surrounded by palo santo trees, we arrived to one of the best sea turtle nesting sites on the islands. We enjoyed the company of many diamond stingrays along the shoreline and learned a lot about conservation programs for the island, including an invasive species eradication program. We were very lucky as we observed a single flamingo in the distance and blue-footed boobies very close to our guests. The baby boobies were one of the main attractions. Right after breakfast, we went snorkeling at Champion Islet. This is a spectacular snorkeling site where we snorkeled with lots of playful sea lions, sea turtles, many different species of fish, and even several whitetip reef sharks. The morning was over, but the adventures were just beginning! After a delicious lunch, we explored Post Office Bay and its surroundings by kayak. Countless sea turtles were spotted by our impressed guests, along with the very popular sea lions and a quiet great blue heron looking for food nearby. Later, it was time to follow the tradition of using the oldest mail system in the Galapagos and in Ecuador, the Post Office Bay barrel. Young pelicans accompanied our guests who enjoyed a nice, relaxing time at the beach before returning to our floating hotel, National Geographic Endeavour II . What a wonderful day!

Daily Expedition Reports

8/8/2022

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National Geographic Explorer

Brattahlíð, Greenland

This morning, we are anchored in front of the first Norse farm in Greenland, Erik the Red’s farm, Brattahlíð. The morning starts out bright and surprisingly warm. It only becomes warmer as the morning progresses, and we remove as many layers of clothing as possible! Along the shore, we are faced with an impressive expanse of lush grassland. This is not natural. The meadows are a result of human effort and sheep diligence; humans remove the woody vegetation, and the sheep keep it from coming back. Today, there is a small farming community at the site, Qassiarsuk. We make a Zodiac landing next to the mouth of a small stream. Arctic char live in the stream, perhaps preparing to spawn. There are a couple of houses between us and our first destination, and the folks here are friendly. I am sure the people are accustomed to visitors. After all, this is one of the most important Norse sites in Greenland, the farm of the founder of the Greenland colony. Our first destination is a short hike up a small hill. Here are two buildings, replicas of a Norse Long House and a chapel. The ruins of both original buildings are located nearby. The chapel is known as Tjoldhilde's Church. Tjoldhilde was Erik the Red’s wife. She was Christian, Erik was not. It is said that Tjoldhilde had the ‘church’ built some distance from the main farm residence so as to not antagonize Erik. The ‘church’ is very small, a family chapel really, with space for only a handful of people. Around the chapel would be consecrated ground where people would be buried. We are lucky with our timing. An official UNESCO guide is in attendance, and he is more than happy to answer all our questions and more. He knows the area and its history, as this is where he grew up. We, too, have our own expert on the history of Norse Greenland, Hafsteinn Saemundsson of Iceland. Hafsteinn stations himself near some ruins, situated below the hill upon which the replicas are built. Next to the chapel is a replica of a Long House. From the outside, the turf walls and roof make the building look like a small hill. On the inside, the house is surprisingly spacious. Displays of period clothing help us envision the people who lived here for close to 500 years, until their world got too cold, and they disappeared like a dream after waking. Well, a dream to me, but the end must have been sad. The people were cut off from the rest of the world, running out of food after slaughtering all their animals, perhaps fighting each other. Who knows? We have time to think about it or not as we wander the hills, learn about the ruins, and visit the large statue of Leif Erikson, son of Erik the Red. Photo caption and photographer: Tjoldhilde's Church. Photo by Dennis Cornejo

Joining us on any expedition means signing up for adventure; and the reward for your curiosity is inevitable—the most exhilarating experience of pure discovery possible.

Sven-Olof Lindblad

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1.800.EXPEDITION (1.800.397.3348)