While we went in several different directions today—from a tunnel under a glacier to a thermal hot water spa—to the dramatic Hraunfossar waterfalls streaming out of the basalt, there was no wrong direction. We also learned that Icelandic motor coach drivers stop for ducklings crossing the road, thank goodness!
Summer wildflowers bloomed along the roadside and trailside, providing splashes of color to a vivid green landscape. A moody sky produced rainsqualls followed by vivid rainbows.
6/26/2022
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National Geographic Resolution
We were up early in Akureyri and on our way to the geologic hinterlands of Iceland. We headed out to see some of the landscapes, geologic and biologic features unique to the Land of Fire and Ice. First stop Goðafoss, the “waterfall of the Gods.” The view lived up to the name, and all who joined the trip were awarded with a classic Icelandic picture. Not our first waterfall by any means, but perhaps our most photogenic, and a spectacular view for sure! Our second stop brought us to Mývatn, a shallow lake rich with birdlife and luckily for us, no midges for which the lake is named! The area has interesting volcanic “pseudocraters,” formed when lava flows over wetlands causing flash boiling of the water and phreatomagmatic explosions. While volcanic in nature, these rootless pseudocraters are not linked directly to a magma chamber. From Mývatn, it was a short ride to the Dimmuborgir lava field, where we hiked through a labyrinth of exotic volcanic towers, exposed lava tubes, and jumbled blocks. Without our Icelandic guide to lead the way, we could easily get lost within this chaotic landscape. We left the region by noon and arrived at our lunch stop to recharge an our afternoon exploration of Námaskarð geothermal area. The stop in and around Námaskarð displayed the classic features of a geothermal region with smelly, steaming, and bubbling mud pots, colorful soils, and roaring fumaroles. Leaving the region, we passed a geothermal powerplant, one of many in Iceland that provide about thirty percent of the country’s energy. Last stop on the tour was Hverfjall crater, a beautiful and nearly symmetrical tephra cone that formed approximately 2,500 years before present by another phreatomagmatic eruption linked to the Krafla volcanic system. A short hike to the top provided views of the crater’s interior and the surrounding landscape. We returned to the coach and headed for Húsavík to meet our ship. Rounding the last turn into town, we could see National Geographic Resolution entering the harbor. Our timing was perfect! Our day was not over. After dinner, we sailed north to the tiny island of Grímsey, smack dab on the Arctic Circle. The wind abated, the swell dropped, and we launched Zodiacs for our late-night exploration of the island. In addition to the opportunity to visit the monument to the Arctic Circle, guests were provided with their best views so far of the Atlantic puffin. Hundreds of the iconic birds posed patiently at their burrows with fish hanging from their beaks. I’ll bet thousands of photos were taken! It was a spectacular ending to an eventful day! Even the sun broke out, casting an amazing glow on the volcanic peaks to the east. Time for bed!
6/25/2022
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National Geographic Resolution
We arrived in Siglufjörður just before breakfast, under cloudy skies that occasionally wept rain. But no matter…we were in a very historic town of Iceland; the center of an enormous, but short-lived herring fishery, it’s now home of the renowned and highly acclaimed Herring Era Museum (Icelandic Museum of the Year, 2000; European Museum of the Year, 2004). Before entering the museum, we witnessed a recreation of the famous Herring Girls at work. Now, England may have the Spice Girls, but they only sing and dance; the Herring Girls match that and add heading-and-gutting herring, an act I suspect the Spice Girls would reject. The current Herring Girls recreated how the original Girls processed the incoming herring, and layered the fish with salt and brine into barrels. They worked hard for little pay and under rustic living conditions. Yet, as time passed they emerged as a powerful voice in getting better pay and living conditions for themselves, an accomplishment that slowly trickled into the national scene, resulting in better pay for all, as well as empowering Icelanders to move away from Danish rule. Once the demonstration ended (with a rousing rendition of traditional Herring Girl songs and dances, emblematic of how the girls and fishermen interacted during ‘down’ time), we entered the spectacular museum. Original machinery used in the herring fishery was collected from all over Iceland and assembled in the museum, providing an impressive visualization of how herring moved from intact fish to the final product of oil and fish meal. Dangerous, dirty, and noisy work…one could easily imagine the conditions while walking through the museum and viewing machinery, herring boats, and old photos. The museum truly deserves its international honors, and expansion plans are in place in order to accommodate some 20,000 artifacts now in storage. We then sailed to Akureyri, leaving the ship shortly after docking for a special performance by the noted and beloved Icelandic singer-song writer, Svavar Knútur. His songs vividly portray intense emotions, interspersed by a delightful and light-hearted monologue. The hour-long performance in a small setting earned a standing ovation, encore, and a final standing ovation. All emerged post-performance with satisfied smiles and agreed it was a unique and impressive performance. Some guests then embarked on a short tour of the local church and botanical garden. National Geographic Resolution remained overnight at the dock in Akureyri, allowing some guests to wander about the town after dinner before retiring for the evening. Tomorrow brings another adventure-packed day.
6/24/2022
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National Geographic Resolution
Today we got a glimpse of all the major characteristics Iceland has to offer: wildlife, scenery, wonderful people, and very tasty desserts.
