Bellsund, 5/9/2025, National Geographic Resolution
Aboard the
National Geographic Resolution
Arctic
A dynamic skyline welcomed us to the day. Clouds crept through the valleys and wrapped around the mountains, landing on the fast ice filling the bays and fjords. After encountering Atlantic walruses in the morning, we set out to land for wonderful views of a glacier. Polar bear and Arctic fox tracks paraded about the snow as Northern fulmars and other seabirds streaked by. The rest of the day we explored the beauty of Bellsund, with sightings of two polar bears in the distance and delighted by epic views of this arctic landscape.
Born in the mountains of east Tennessee, it was easy for Steve to fall in love with the wonderful natural environment around him. What started as a childhood passion to scan the creeks and ponds for all they would reveal evolved into a studied desire...
It is a rare thing indeed to find a place to land where only ONE person on the expedition team has been before. There can be very few of these destinations in any polar region, such is the breadth of experience we have on board, and yet we accomplished this today. A stiff breeze following National Geographic Resolution chilled early risers as we traversed the north coast of Spitsbergen Island towards the east. Our destination was an island – well more accurately a shingle bank called Moffen – which is a nature reserve. Timing is significant when visiting the islands of Svalbard, especially in the nature reserves, which are closed between May 15th and September 1st. An early scout in our Zodiacs took the rifle team out to look for a landing. Ice everywhere, including brash ice and old chunks of pack ice resembling piles of Legos. There was a small piece of shore upon which we could land our Zodiacs. Immediately a plan was made, and people came ashore. The ice returned, and we retreated until after lunch, and then, lo and behold, we were able to land everyone from the ship onto this little piece of nowhere. At 80 degrees north, there is nothing between Moffen and the North Pole apart from ice and water. What a remarkable Mother’s Day!
Today we woke up in St. Jonsfjord, one of the few places sheltered from the passing storm, allowing us to make a landing and explore. We had views of reindeer, our first rock ptarmigan, and pink-footed geese of the season. We also visited an old hunters’ hut from 1962. In the afternoon, we landed at Poolepynten and were able to get within 40 meters of about 20 walruses hauled out on shore. We could see their breath in the cold air and when the wind changed slightly, we were treated to a pungent smell to compliment the view.
