Cape Dezhnev and Uelen village, 8/26/2019, National Geographic Orion
Aboard the
National Geographic Orion
Arctic
What an incredible scene to wake to! A glass-calm sea with a beautiful sunrise. The weather stayed mostly calm for the morning allowing us to go ashore at Cape Dezhnev, the remains of a Yupik village abandoned in the 1950s due to Soviet resettlement of the villagers. Here we could see the remains of houses and stores all made from rocks carried up from the beach, and then the remains of large whale bones which would have supported the roof on the buildings.
In the afternoon we arrived at Uelen; a modern Yupik village where the traditional cultures and dress meet with more modern technology and architecture. Villagers were processing several walruses killed earlier when we arrived. Tusks two feet in length were excised first. Outsiders may wince seeing the process, but it is just as fascinating to witness – firsthand – the role of these magnificent animals in sustaining an otherwise traditional Russian culture. The indigenous people of the Arctic have a quota for marine mammals that they can hunt for subsistence, and substantial parts of the walrus will be used for food and other utility.
Born in Scotland, Peter became fascinated with nature and wildlife from a very young age. This early interest led to him earning a degree in conservation biology followed shortly after by an M.Sc in marine and fisheries ecology. He is currently study...
Growing up in a military family, Mark Coger has been traveling most of his life. While living in Japan, he developed his passion for videography. He began his venture in the field of video production by filming numerous events for a local high scho...
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Sadly, today was our final in Russia. Before departing, though, we traveled south to Provideniya, the administrative center of Chukotka, to pass through customs and to experience this unique community. Provideniya was formerly a bustling military port of the Soviet era that in recent decades has declined in population, leaving many of the buildings vacant. We were warmly welcomed with performances held in their cultural center.
It is a busy day this last day of our trip. However, just like every other morning of this trip, Helga our talented receptionist and musician serenaded us with her beautiful piano playing, drawing many of us to the lounge. We enjoyed a fabulous breakfast, once again. Our rental gear was collected just prior to Alex giving the disembarkation briefing, which brings the reality of our departure into clear relief. Outside the fog came and went revealing a vast sea then not much beyond the rails of our ship. Glaucous gulls and short-tailed shearwaters continue to be our travelling companions. This crossing of the Bering Sea could not have been any more smooth. A presentation about marine invasives and Pacific Ocean currents got minds engaged with the very waters we transit. Our photo team gave individual feedback to interested photographers. Soon everyone was sharing images and selecting their chosen few for the guest slide show. After lunch we set our clocks ahead an hour. Keeping track of the day and the time has been a challenge this trip. We have two September 15ths and lose two hours before the day is done. Tracey the hotel manager returned our passports and the hotel team provided an ice cream social which delighted everyone. Corey Arnold, our National Geographic photographer, presented images of Kivalina, an Alaskan whaling village, we saw with new understanding. This remote village continues to survive with strong family ties even when whaling has been scarce. All too soon it was cocktail hour and time for our slide show. WOW, we have some spectacular photographers on this trip but even more importantly, we have some stunning memories.
South through the Bering Strait we sailed over night. The pastel dawn gave us hints of Big Diomede Island off our port side. All morning we sailed toward Lorino, during which naturalist Rich Kirchner taught us about the various wildlife adaptations to the Arctic environment. The photo team, National Geographic photographer Corey Arnold, photo Instructor David Cothran, and undersea specialist Peter Webster surveyed photography submitted by guests the day before. Our time in the wild lands of Wrangel Island is behind us and we are re-entering the world dominated by people. On the sunny shores of Lorina, first we were greeted by the children. One of the many dogs that ran the beach smiled as we came ashore and approached us for a friendly exchange. The people of Lorino Village live a life that marries new technology with old-world convention: Theirs is both an internet-connected, cell-phone-equipped community, while also one of traditional maritime subsistence, bound by and founded upon whaling. The town shows the mix of cultural norms that have sustained over time. Soviet-era buildings sit squarely in the town’s center. Wooden benches perch atop a wave carved hillside to allow whale spotters a chance to sit while they search. Large-wheeled, decades-old, off-road vehicles blast rap music. Yamaha outboards clutching aluminum skiffs sit next to walrus skin boats with oars instead of paddles. The language is Russian, the culture is Yupik and Chukchi, but the berry jam is universal. The warmest of greetings surrounded us on a sunny beach. Traditional dancers danced between flags of Russia and Lorina. A competitive round of tug of war ensued, followed by javelin tossing. We laughed, we smiled, we took pictures, we petted the puppies, we tasted the food and shook hands. I am more alien here than I was on Wrangel Island. The wilderness is the greatest equalizer. Here, in Lorino, I am aware of my clothing, its style and newness. I am aware that I represent my culture. I didn’t feel that in the wilderness, and I put it on now like an overcoat or a uniform that speaks before I do. I am here to see the differences and to look into the eyes of Lorino to get past those differences. I’m here to see if that is possible.
